I don’t know quite how, but the bike makes it to the end of the special. It’s in a little village. I ride another couple of hundred meters and find a nice tree with lots of shade to park under. There is crowd of about fifty people standing there, watching the passing racers. They are delighted and watch me with great interest as I strip off the fairing and use about 100 cable ties to lash the fairing together.
The damage is horrific. Bolts have been stripped and I’m missing crucial spacers holding the structure together, moreover a couple of aluminum plates have been badly torn by the vibrations since my last stop. It’s painfully obvious that this is just not going to last. I use my towing rope to lash the whole lot together in a bunch and tighten the remaining bolts. I consider using liquid metal as well, but all the surfaces are too dirty to provide a decent bonding surface. There is nothing to clean this up out here without embarking on a major strip of the whole front sub frame, and even though there is only a liaison to complete, I need to get to the finish before the maximum time to avoid a 2 hour penalty.
Finally, after a good 45 minutes of work I think I have managed something workable and the whole lot seems to be relatively solid. The whole time I am putting this all together the crowd watch me, commenting and discussing my prgress among themselves. There is a sweet little old lady no higher than four feet with no teeth gabbling away happily the whole time and making exclamations of excitement that make me and everyone else laugh. I think the poor lady has Down syndrome, but she seems to be so loved and supported by those around her, it does not appear to be much of a handicap. Everyone in this village clearly have so little, they are all so poor, yet appear to be living very happy lives in spite of the obvious hardship. For them today is just one fun day in a whole set of long, tedious days farming in the heat. What a humbling experience it is to be with them, to share these moments with them. A couple of guys help hold my rope tight as I tie knots. I wish I had my camera with me, the scenes would make such an awesome photo sequence. Here are some others instead that I think captures the essence of these really wonderful people to some extent:
Pic: www.Webventure.com.br
Pic: www.Webventure.com.br
Pic: www.Webventure.com.br
Eventually I am ready to push on and I thank them all and wave. They cheer and clap. The little old lady, jumps up and down despite her great age, giggling and laughing excitedly. Everyone laughs with her rather than at her. Tears come to my eyes as I pull away. What precious people.
Almost immediately, my system of ropes and cable ties begin to work lose and fifteen minutes later I have to stop and re-tighten everything up again. It becomes a pattern and I resign myself to limping along for 15 minutes and then spending ten minutes tightening up again. Its going to be a long day.
I’m not the only straggler though. I come across another rider who has broken his chain. He does not have a master link either. He is trying to push the pin back in with his thumbs. It’s not working well. I don’t have the tools to help him. Just then Dave arrives and comes to the rescue. He whips off his backpack and produces not only the tools but another master link. Only one problem: It does not fit!
I decide to leave them as I have a long way to go with my own problems and I am beginning to realize that at this speed I might not make it myself. Reading the road book is problematic; ropes holding my bike together are crisscross the viewing window of my road book and make reading each tulip a bit of a guess. I just know if I marked it in red, there is something dangerous coming up and I deal with it. It means careful riding. Fortunately, the area we are in is so remote there seems to be only one track to follow. Soon enough, Dave and the guy with the broken chain come blasting past, while I am on one of my lashing stops. I am unable to catch them again.
When I get to the second refueling stop for the day, I meet up with Phil.
We are wonderfully happy. The special is behind us, we just have a long liaison to deal with. Phil has no power on his bike. He is also operating the road book by hand. This is now the second day running he has been doing this and he is not very pleased about it.
But right now, we have autographs to sign, even if it’s on the little guy’s arm,
and pictures to take. Again, we are treated like heroes. We feel unworthy, but it’s a huge ego boost regardless, and it is exactly what we need for the challenges ahead. I spend some time retying my subframe and this time I think it’s a better job. I also have some huge cable ties someone gave me that really help. Just as well, as all the other ones I used have been cut through by the sharp metal.
A couple of other guys catch up with us and we herd out in two groups of two, Phil with his new found friend Arndt, also on a Katoom, and me with a wild looking guy on a Yahama. Riding next to my partner becomes a real pain in the ass. His exhaust is missing (as in gone) and its wailing like a banshee. Even with my earplugs it’s a serious case for hearing loss and I decide this riding-with-a-partner thing in this case is for the birds. I’m also eating the dust of Phil and Arndt in front of us.
I pass Phil and Arndt in front of me in an open corn field and nearly wipe out on a huge series of whoops. Somehow the suspension keeps me upright and I break away. The guy on the Yamaha keeps up with me and we ride together until it gets twisty again and I get ahead, despite having to dial the road book manually.
Having had some water and a bite to eat has done wonders for my confidence. I’m more upbeat about my front sub-frame and I have some strength back after the shade. I have to stop after about 25 minutes to tighten the ropes, just enough for Phil and Arndt to pass me, but I catch up and pass them again. It becomes a pattern for the afternoon: I ride on ahead and they catch me later. Perhaps two hours later, I come across our friend with the chain problem again. His chain is broken again. He looks me in the eye and we are both thinking the same thing: This is the end of the race for him. But he doesn’t give up, and tries to fix the chain. I admire his fighting spirit. We are brothers in this thing now. I tie up my bike again; the ropes have worn through in several places now. Phil and Arndt rock up and help the poor guy just as the first of the cars come blasting through.
They are so freaking fast and scary, bikes and bikers scatter in all directions. Once they are close a bike is no match for them. Despite popular belief their average speeds are way higher than ours and being caught on a narrow road with three tons of flying metal behind you is absolutely terrifying.
I’m just so glad we seem still seem to be staying ahead of the truck boys. Cars are bad enough. Trucks are far worse.
It seems I am not the only one who holds trucks in disdain… ;D Just don’t let the bastards catch you, whatever happens!
I press on and at my next stop, the guy who broke his chain comes by me. I have just finished tying up my bike up again and try to stay with him. It’s getting late and we still have over 150km to go. He is not wasting time and I am battling to keep up with him. Just then I notice a buzzing helicopter and it distracts me enough in a deep sandy section to cause me to dig in my front wheel in. I am going too slowly and endo onto my head. Its soft sand but the shock to my head dazes me. Sand has filled my helmet, and gone down my jacket. There is nothing I can do except wrestle the bike up again and get back on. Pulling away, I struggle in a river crossing and realize that I’m going to have to dig really deep to get through this.
The river crossings are endless. [size-8pt]Pic: www.Webventure.com.br[/size]
Most of them are small, thank God. The riding between the rivers is challenging. Technical, but not ridiculously so I suppose, but after seven days of nonstop riding its really, really debilitating. I’m in that zone where you are too tired to care, where everything is merely mechanical and the mind wanders. I dream of the others ahead of me, of Mark Coma and others having probably finished this hell and are enjoying a late afternoon snack and perhaps Red Bull in the comfort of their super-luxurious bivouac setup. They’ll be working on their road books for the next day, while I’m slogging away in the boondocks. The bastards. We dont even have any water left.
All the while the day gets longer. Light is going to be a problem. The snowball effect Charlie warned me about in rallies is about to catch me and overtake me. I’ve been dodging it the whole rally, but now it finally has me in its clutches. Tomorrow, if I can make it will be even harder thanks to the events of today.
My anger refocuses me on the task ahead, another bloody river crossing, this time with submerged planks to ride along. I’m too tired to care about walking it and cruise through. The cold water on my legs and in my boots wakes me from my zone a bit and I ride better for a while, still stopping now and then for a while to fix the navigation tower. I have lost all power to the navigation systems, the fans, the light, it’s all been severed by sharp blades of broken metal. I hope that my ignition cable holds out. Luckily my ICO has a little battery that powers the LCD panel so that still works while there is daylight. Car after car have been passing me. There are no other bikes about. I know most are in front and the only comfort is that there are still a number still caught behind me somewhere.
Arndt and Phil catch me again and wait for me to finish tying up my bike for the nth f***** time. They look on, concerned.
Arndt takes a few snaps of me working on my bike.
It’s a really beautiful afternoon. Looks like somewhere in the bushveldt doesn’t it?
I’m greatful for the company but talk is of the failing light and the distance we still have to cover: 80km. We only have half an hour of light left, max. It’s going to be epic for both Phil and I who will have no lights at all. At least Arndt has kindly offered to ride with us. His bike seems to be okay.
I press on in front and pull away from the guys, aware that the faster I go now will mean less riding in the dark later on. It’s only a matter of time in my condition that I crash and I wait for it anxiously, fighting to stay alert and focused. I remember Phil’s logo written on his bike: “Focus, flow, finish.” Its very apt when you’re thoroughly knackered.
It happens in the growing twilight about twenty minutes later, I low-side the bike on a gravelly curve that tightens halfway through. The bike lands on my left leg and spins me around, twisting my leg the wrong way and ripping ligaments and cartilage in my knee. I desperately try to roll over to minimize damage but its too little too late. I burst into tears, the frustration of failure is just too much to handle at this point. I lie there for a while, but only until I remember that no one is coming to rescue me at this time of day. I have to get myself out of this or stay here for hours waiting for help. Worse, Phil and Arndt will be coming any minute and see me in my pathetic state. What will my reason be for stopping? That I’m too tired? Hell no! Get up, damn it! I get up, and pull myself together. There is still some twilight left. Maybe five or ten minutes. That’s maybe 15-20 km further if I don’t waste any more time. I struggle to get the bike back up on my good leg, and set about turning it around. Of course, I manage drop it a second time before kick starting it and setting off. I’m too tired to worry about the fairing and navigation tower now. I just want this to end.
I can’t read my ICO anymore. It’s now too dark to see much at all. I take off my goggles and ride, peering anxiously at the road ahead of me. There is no moon, and I can’t see jack. The only thing guiding me is the very dark shapes probably representing undergrowth on either side of the very dark but slightly paler road. If there is any livestock on this road, any rocks or sharp turns, and I’m in deep shit. I ride like this for perhaps half an hour, feeling the sandy and rocky patches. It’s quite a weird feeling not having any idea of what to expect. Here I am in a 3rd world country doing 60 with no lights at night. I brace for the inevitable, concluding crash and praying to the Lord that I do not.