Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?

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Loading pictures on our blog site was really time consuming in Africa countries, I will load more pictures on this thread than what we loaded on our blog site.
 
Great report and  :thumleft: to you guys for chasing the dream.
 
Uitstekend Michnus  :thumleft:
 
Sub-f-ing-scribed !!!!!!!
Epic!!

Very nice so far !
 
ANGOLA- CERVEJA OBRIGADO!

You only have to know these two words to have locals crack a broad smile and even hard *** police officials won’t be able to keep a straight face. Beer and Thank You are the Portuguese words you need to know when visiting Angola.

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  MILE MARKER

The last time I visited Angola was more an off road ride, this time round it is to show Elsebie, Harold and Linda this wonderful country and to try and mix it up with some of the locals. Angola and it's people really have a way of creeping into your heart.

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ZA AND ANGOLA MEET AGAIN.

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 ROAD SIDE BEER STOP

But Angola is a fickle mistress! This time she gave me a hard time coming close. Let me give you the absurd before I get to the good stuff.  We were supposed to enter Angola at Ruacana but the more we talked to the locals at Ruacana that used the route to Cahama, the more we were advised to stay away and use the main border. It’s the rainy season and the roads are so bad that we won’t be able to get to Cahama in a day. Dik bek, we decided to crossed at Oshikango, the only major border between Angola and Namibia.  Major bloody mistake!!!!!!

We gave the Angola embassy in SA the “Letters of invitation “Jose sends to us for the issue of the visa. Now these numb skulls at the border wanted a copy of it! How in hell must we get them now!? They only issue the visa on having this letter, why does this numbskull now also want to see it while he sit with the visa in his hands?

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MANY RUSTED UP WAR RELICS NEXT TO THE ROAD.

We tried to explain but the officials, who could quote from their system the name of the person who issued our invitation, but still they would have none of us. In the end a local fixer sitting behind us under the tree said he will go fetch the fax on the Namibian side at Nedbank.  Thanks to Moses, who helped us the rest of the way, his fee of about US$40 and 6 hours later we entered Angola!

The border officials also did not know what a Carne-de-passage is, nor an International driver’s license and topped it off by telling Linda not to sit on a bench that is under the tree as it is only for officials!

This fickle mistress Angola had my moer deep into the red and it was bloody 40C outside.  Angola is not a tourist friendly country. The bureaucracy is mind boggling and the communism shows through now and then. Sounds stupid but that is why we are drawn to these countries, a lot less rules and still not besiege by tourist, you get to taste the local flavour of the country. It is damn expensive to stay in lodges or B&B’s and restaurants are equally expensive, at least beer and petrol are cheaper than in SA.

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click on the picture for a bigger size
   



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Our destination was Lubango the place of Jose the man that fought against us South Africans in the border war and the oke that entertained us 3 years ago on our Foz du Cunene trip.  We were greeted by Jose at his restaurant (under renovations currently) with a huge smile although he only placed me about two days later due to the long hair.  We were planning a trip to Namibe for a stay over, instead Jose would have none of that. He escorted us to Namibe for a day trip and that evening arranged a braai and entertainment by the old band that performed for us on our previous trip. Josef the Louis Armstrong look-a-like wood saw artist, Jose – a Johan Stemmet look-a-like base guitar player and Nando – Al Debo look-a-like guitar player.

 
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THE TRUCK IS NOT PHOTOSHOP INTO THE PICTURE, LINDA AND HAROLD IS BUSY PASSING HIM. WHICH WAS THE MAIN ROAD IS NOW UN DRIVE-ABLE BY CARS AND TRUCKS THEY REVERT TO DRIVING NEXT TO THE ROAD.

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   I HELPED THIS MAN, HE ASKED ME TO BORROW HIM A JACK, FOR SURE WE CARRY CAR JACKS WITH US ON BIKES. PLUGGED HIS TYRE WITH SOME WORMS HE HAD 4 DIFFERENT HOLES AROUND THE TYRE, PUMPED IT AND HE WAS ON HIS WAY. DRIVE AROUND HERE WITH NO MEANS OF CHANGING A TYRE? JUST INSANE.

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IF YOU DRIVE AROUND WITHOUT A SPARE AND A JACK THEN AT LEAST MAKE SURE YOU ASK THE MAN UPSTAIRS FOR HELP.  :biggrin:

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FRIENDLY FACES

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PLAY IT AGAIN SAM

The generosity, warmth and friendliness of these Angolans know no bounds.  We felt it everywhere we went. People do not look miserable and unhappy in fact they look quite content with their lives in this recovering country. Adults and kids wave to us, no stone throwing or outstretched hands– begging, so unlike the Himba and Lesotho kids. Maybe that is the trade mark of a tourist country versus a non-tourist country. They jump up and down with excitement when we wave back or stop for some photos.

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BEER STOP

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WE GOT TOLD LOVERS LIKE TO DEFACE BAOBAB TREES WITH THE GRAFFITI.

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PIKIPIKI'S ROAD SIDE REPAIRS. SKILL FULL PEOPLE THIS, NOTHING IS A PROBLEM.
 
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COLOURFUL HOUSES

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MORNING COFFEE AT JOSE'S PLACE WE STAYED IN LUBANGO.

Angola also features jaw-drop beautiful landscapes and now in summer it’s even more so.  You can go from tropical to desert in 170km and the sea water temperature at Namibe is close to 25 degrees. I understand why so many people immigrate to this country even though it’s is hell hard to do business in Angola, even the locals have a saying “nothing in Angola is easy”.​

 

 
Jose was very persistent the day before.We had to do a separate trip to Namibe with the bikes. Obviously we were not in the mood to ride the 300km round trip to Namibe in two days. One thing that was a bit of a refresher on this suggestion was that we were going to be able spend some time at Leba pass.

We left our luggage at the house and set off with Jose and his wife on his Varadero. There's quite a bike following in Lubango and they often have races in Lubango.

We set off with Jose in the lead first stop Leba pass. I can not say why I like Leba pass so much. Maybe it is because it goes back to army time, I don't know, maybe the mystery around it from that time. The pass itself is not the best ride I have done. It's such a great feeling standing on the opposite side of the pass taking in the jaw drop beauty of the place.
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Second time this Dakar get the pleasure of riding Leba

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View from the top of Leba pass with the road meandering down to Namibe in the distance

At the bottom of Leba pass there's a row of small stall selling food stuff. The lot sell the same stuff, at the same price. Jose spoiled us with his favourite, chicken stomachs and hearts, a bit on the tough side but very tasty.

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Local Pikipiki's

We left to meet up with Jose's friends in Namibe at the beach front. It's a happening spot with Portuguese elders sitting around see facing restaurants drinking espresso and grappa the entire Sunday. We met a fisherman that's been in Namibe for 20 odd years and owns the only Harley in the town. It's well looked after bike and it's evident the man loves his Harley more than his kids. 
The food at these cafe's are the best. fish and chips or local lobster.

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Yes it's dead Harry!
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That evening it was party time at Jose's place with all his friends and their band that got together to play for us. It went on till 3 that morning. The band played anything from Abba to Creedence Clearwater. These people know how to party properly. Their warm hearted friendship was unbelievable we were treated as if we were part of the family for years.

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We meet again after 3 years

The next day it was back to Namibe to Jose's beach house. The road took us about 20km North of Namibe. We had to turn off well before the town onto a real **** road. It's a desert waste land and gave the idea of a small Fish river canyon. Unbelievably beautiful vistas. The riding in the desert was mind blowing, well for me, Linda struggled a bit but took it well and kept her head high. It was difficult for her in the sand but this woman's heart is in the right place for riding. 
The tracks run all over the place, and then come together again in a sand track just to split off again into several directions.

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Fooling around in the desert.

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Linda had a bit of a hard time, but she came out head high!

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Jose's beach house....eeerrmm, shack more that you can call a house.

Bias dos Pipas, Namibe is where the beach party will be. It’s a colourful small little community that resembles Hentie’s Bay (no shops though). Funny the water is hot but it is next to a desert, I always thought warm coastal water ensures a tropical landscape.

We spend the day with Jose and his family, they are a lively active bunch. Jose and his family left at about 8pm for Lubango but we stayed behind to enjoy a night on the beach. How many places can you still park your bike on the beach and sleep there without a worry in the world. This place is a paradise, in fact, worth dealing with some of the bureaucratic nonsense, this country offers maybe even more free living than South Africa.
You can trust on Angola to get some tough chicken and we were not disappointed the chicken were tough but tasty, the chips as always good.
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We went on till late that night finishing off the Carlsberg's they left us. Sorting out Africa's problems is hard work.

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The morning after!

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We met up with Agusto in Namibe the next day, he is a friend of Jose and a 40year old fisherman who owns fishing boats with his dad and to our surprise rides a Harley he bought into Angola with him 20 years ago. He was waiting for 4 of his friends from Portugal. They shipped their bikes from Portugal to Mozambique and then rode all the way to Angola and will be shipping the bikes back to Portugal again. They were apparently inspired by our previous trip report written by Metaljockey (Erik) - “Angola not what they said”.  One of them has never ridden a bike and not to miss out on this epic expedition decided to try it on a quad. 

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Agusto invited us to his parents’ house for a local fish braai. This is the strangest darn thing, and maybe it’s because dual purpose riders are sort of cut from the same cloth. Yes, yes it’s a generalisation but to date all these bike riders we have come to meet have become friends of Elsebie and me. These guys felt like my friends from school I have seen 20 years ago, not as complete strangers that only met 30 mins ago.

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Having lunch at Agusto's parents place.

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Our new friends!

Bliksem, I love this and I know I will see them again in the near future even if we have to fly to Portugal or them to SA. This is what it is all about, meeting people making friends and seeing new places……….life is great!

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Spoiling ourselves with a night in a banda on the beach.

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Heavily protected missile site in Namibe  :imaposer:

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Zooom in
On the outskirts of Namibe and barely 1km out of town we saw these missiles pointing south towards SA, as per urban legend. The local story is some of the missiles are pointing towards the USA and others to SA but for some reason I doubt when they hit the button these missiles will go further than the town’s municipal border. This is even more bizarre than the Custom procedures.  I rode up to the gate where the officials sat and asked whether it is possible for me to take pictures of the awesome fire power………noa, NOA!! No,no, they said.​
 
Soooo awesome.

great report. great pics.

my dream kinda trip.
:thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
 
Didn't the song go "Hello Africa, tell me how you're doing" ?

Who cares, show us.

Jealously looking forward to the rest.
 
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