The Husky that wouldn't die and other "Kleinigheidjies" in Ovahimbaland

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Getting back to the dehydration issues mentioned in an earlier post - I was the unwitting victim a few years back, in Northern Namibia as it would happen, ridding from Opawu to Sesfontein & then down to WarmQuille - I ran out of water just before Sesfontein, but we didnt stop to fill up there, as it was a short flip down to WarmQuille - but it was well into the late 40's, my bike registered 46.5degC at some point, and with a jacket etc., by the time I got to the camp, I couldnt work out how to get off the bike, I parked it against a pole, but couldnt get off - I was being a little belligerent with my riding partner, and he had the foresight to realise that I was in trouble - he started by pouring warm tap water all over me to promote cooling, grabbed rehydrat & water and started pumping me with that, whilst keeping my clothes soaked to bring my body temp down. I drank aver 8 litres of water in the next 10 hours, and only went for a pee late the following morning - it was damn scary, we both learned a lot from that!

Cannot wait for the RR!!!!
 
Nou wat nou ? Alles is seker skoon by nou ? :peepwall:
 
where can i find more info on the tours costs etc
 
dirt rat said:
Nou wat nou ? Alles is seker skoon by nou ? :peepwall:

Elio (Striggs) is busy compiling the ride report Craig. He told me the other day that things were hectic at work, with him being away for so long. I suspect he will post here soon.
The cleaning of the equipment unfortunately goes hand in hand with the repairs of breakages, maintenance on all three the vehicles and the trailers, new covid tests for all the staff, new orders for the meat and groceries in Namibia, delivery of customer bikes, and the collection of the new group's bikes.
On top of this Loxton is freezing cold at the moment, Things are however on schedule and we are looking forward to the new tour.
Guys like ETS have booked years ago and for some or the other reason something always happened that blocked his tour. This time it seems as if the stars alligned for him and I am looking forward to see old friends like him, Rickus, and Twister.
There is also a bunch of new faces and it seems as if we are going to have some serious fun. 
 
Finally..... the RR is kinda ready.. Please bear with me.. it is so much easier to talk than to write...

Once upon a time in a land not so far away, something Special reared it's head in the form of an adventure..  :biggrin:

Ok enough of that, let us get down to the nitty gritty..

Last October, a few of us were fortunate enough to do a trippie with Hardy, Chantal and co into the Northern Cape and what an experience it was.. I had done a similar route in 2019 with a couple of guys and a backup vehicle, so I thought
oh well, it will be the same I guess...  How wrong I was...

Here are a couple of pics of that experience.. I have included one of our mascot, semi-clothed.
 

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Pre-trip run from East London to Windhoek

Hein, myself and Hennie R decided to drive up to Windhoek via Upington and Keetmanshoop. We joined the crew en route and spent first night under the stars just outside Keetmans, nice and chilly..

Much angst about the Border crossing and COVID etc...
 

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Some of the support vehicles..
 

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We arrived in Windhoek in cold rainy weather  :eek7: all I kept thinking was whether Hardy's premonition would be true...

Once settled in, we watched Hardy and his minions get busy.. the preparation and planning for a trip like this is mind blowing... 17 bikes on a trip is insane.. plus 6 back up crew.. I certainly wouldn't have the balls to try this.. having being part organizer on our trips (10 pax), it is no joke.. and that is with people I know..  :3some:

We collected 2 bikes left in Windhoek by Metal Jockey for 2 of the guys to use. Father and 2 sons on a trip.. wonderful opportunity for them.

The next day, the rest of the entourage flew in and caught a shuttle from the airport and joined us at Arrebusch Lodge. To put it mildly, the place was like a beehive for the next few hours..

Day 1

The trip in essence started the following day, 230km north-west of Windhoek from a town called Usakos. We drove up in convey and began the trip in ernest at around midday. Our first night was to be at Spitzkoppe, a spectacular granite outcrop, not too far from Usakos.  It was around 30km of tar and then we hit the dirt finally.. I could sense a few nervous souls at the start of the gravel... :lol8:

If you have not been to Spitzkoppe, it is no doubt worth a visit.. I will let the pics do the talking


 

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Every evening on the trip was spent under the stars... lying on stretchers with sleeping bags and occasional use of mozzie nets.. some places in the middle of nowhere, with zero water, we had squadrons of the buggers  :bueller:
On many evenings, deep into the night, one could hear the gentle slapping of ears and cheeks in between the waxing and waning of seasoned snorers..

I have attached a pic of the evening sky from my bed, it obviously wont do it justice, taken with a cellphone with a not so steady hand...

The campsite we occupied at Spitzkoppe had an amazing rockface with a built in fireplace.. impressive by day, even better at night.

 

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Day 2..

Spitzkoppe to Palmwag  -- gravel highways -- with a little bit of tricky sand here and there..

For noting: Husky that would never die = HTWND

Everyone was up bright and early, especially the crew. Tons of fiddling and tinkering on the bikes and plenty of last minute dashing off for that pee that just wont go away....

Quite a few of the group were visibly nervous, I think from both anticipation and excitement that the trip was finally really on its way.

Every morning after breakfast, the Unimog that carried all our bags (awesome duffels made by Peter King - Nomad Bags) and stretchers etc. would get packed. It is quite a task and a great team-building exercise.  It also helped ease that early morning tension by doing some manual labor.  This is the day it finally dawned on all that the trip was happening, after all the months of prepping, packing, yakking on WhatsApp etc. The group was quite diverse in age and back-rounds.. whether the dynamic would work or not, only time would tell.. but we were off to a good start.

At the briefing, which we had every morning, 2 guys were visibly concerned as to the availability of the local brew at our destination..

We finally left camp, refilled our water bladders on our way out and got moving, it was going to be long arduous day ahead.

The first 3 days were basically gravel highways, getting us far north as possible, to where the real fun started.  It sounds rather boring, but is important as it gives you time to get used to your bike, following distances and the dust... yes the dust.  Us humans are funny creatures, in spite of the thousands of km's of open space, we tend to want to huddle up, even on those long open stretches of road with lung and filter clogging dust.  It took time, but finally after a few days, the group separated into smaller groups and the dust gaps grew bigger and bigger, each individual found their groove and settled in.

Hardy had plotted a route for us that included a little interesting piece as he so called it.  It is all rather well thought out you see, it slowly introduces you to the varying road conditions that are so prevalent in Nam, from gravel that is smoother and wider than our tar roads, to sand so thick that it wants to stop you in your tracks.  I could tell from the number of snaky tracks in the thick sand, that there were gonna be a few stories later that evening.. let's not even talk about the corrugations on a section of road close to Twyvelfontein, it was insane, they managed to dislodge my Montana from the "Garmin rugged mount" Not rugged enough Garmin, just not rugged enough...

We were encouraged by Hardy to stop and take in the sights and enjoy the journey.  First stop was in Uis to refuel and take a breather.. after that was a scheduled lunch stop, which some of us flew by.. big mistake, one should never miss a bosveld jaffel....never ever.. I think after doing the Sorri-Sorri loop with the sandy riverbeds, the juices were flowing and the testosterone blinkered our vision.. we managed to miss the Unimog on the side of the road  :eek:

When the hunger finally took control, we stopped at a local shop for what was to be the first of many tins of bully beef, miniature vetkoek and cold beer during the trip..  This was around 45km from Palmwag.  Eventually arrived at Palmwag and filled up with cheapest fuel we have seen in years. Excellent pubs and swimming pools at Palmwag.  One can clearly see and feel the impact of Covid and lack of tourism. The staff are almost numbed to the lack of business and seem cautiously optimistic that things may one day return to normal at some point.. more on that later.

Let it be noted that this was also the day that the "HTWND" was towed in, by a KTM nogal.. :ricky:

One of our group, super-responsible, very capable, tool carrying Johan, arrived with a very perturbed look on his face and with utmost concern asked where the rest of the group was? Actually he seemed quite annoyed.. He had taken it upon himself to be responsible for the father and sons crew.. big mistake. The last pic shows what they were doing whilst he was worrying about them... :imaposer:

Plenty of chatter around the camp that night, mostly about the thick sand and the corrugations and whether it would get any worse. This was also the first time Charles calmly spoke up and said... moenie worry, dis kleinegeitjies daai... and just like that a new season had dawned on us. A time of little things that really do not matter at the end of it all. 

There was some activity around the HTWND and it was found that one of the screws had fallen out of the carb (still not sure if it the air screw) Anyway, it was promptly plugged up and all seemed good..

There were a couple of tired bodies and in no time, the snoring began.. Day 3 was going to be another long pull up to Opuwo..







 

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Lekker report! Keep it coming.

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

 
Striggs said:
At the briefing, which we had every morning, 2 guys were visibly concerned as to the availability of the local brew at our destination..

I'm really enjoying your sense of humour and report, Striggs. Looks like quite a bunch of characters and one can appreciate seasoned travelers with their own case of beer for just in case. The two look as though they could be brothers.

The dad & 2 sons also look like they're having a ball.
 

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Day 3... Palmwag to Opuwo..

another long haul on dem gravel highways..

Hit the road early, it was going to be warm...  the road took us northwards again, this time heading past Khowarib. Not much excitement today except for an 18 wheeler on the road. The amount of dust it generated was astounding. It was simply impossible to pass safely, so next best thing was to stop and take a break... we popped in to Khowarib lodge, very nice spot that.  We would return at a later stage during the journey and see another part of the Khowarib.

Not sure if anyone here has done the snuff snort snapping thingy.. basically an instrument that takes a small dose of snuff and rams it into the back of your head via your nostrils faster than the speed of light.. it is somewhat refreshing some might say.. you have to do it just once or twice if you're a slow learner...

We continued our journey northwards, turning sharp right just before Sesfontein,.

Some technical info, something worth noting..  in 25 plus years of riding all sorts of plastic bikes, I have never ever considered the relevance or importance of balancing the wheels, particularly the rear.  On this trip I had a KTM 450 EXC that I had tweaked a little to suit longer distances, added a bigger tank, a tower and screen.  Whilst cruising at around 75km all seemed good, but anything above that and the bike started vibrating like crazy.  Hein rode alongside me and said that he could physically see my back wheel bobbing like a thing possessed.  I had fitted a ultra thick tube with a rim lock and this combo had completely unsettled the balance of the wheel.. The next morning, before leaving Opuwo, we found a tyre place, Kunene Tyre Fitment Centre.. what a great bunch of people, super helpful. Added some weights, about 120g opposite the rim lock.. What a difference it made to the bike.. pity I didn't do it earlier...

After leaving Khowarib, we had the first puncture.... the HTWND  ???

A little further up the road, we rode through a dust storm of sorts, picture shows the extent of it, quite localized fortunately.

The rest of that road had some fascinating and interesting changes in topography and vegetation. Rode through an amazing baobab forest with heaps of other large trees and then wham, suddenly it was all over and back to dry, desolate plains. giant termite mounds everywhere, only ever seen bigger than that at Mana Pools in Zim.

Opuwo is a bustling little town with a fair amount of shops/supermarkets etc, a bit too crowded for me. Got swamped at the filling station by bead and bracelet carrying vendors literally throwing merchandise at us. People are desperate for any kind of trade, tourist business is clearly lacking.

We made our way up to our overnight stop, Opuwo Country Lodge Campsite.

Depressing site driving up to the main lodge and seeing all kinds of fixtures and fittings all lined up in the parking area.  Apparrantly an impending auction of goods, to try and generate some cash in these dry times..

We sat around the pool and gave them our full support at the bar...  :lol8: What an incredible setting.. perfect place to end another dry, long dusty day on the bikes...




 

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some more pics of Day 3

2 on the couch were another father and son duo... Daan and Daan...
 

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Day 4... Opuwo to Epupa Falls

Things start hotting up a little..

We left Opuwo after the mandatory briefing and headed towards Swartbooi Drift on the banks of the might Kunene. It was to be another warm day.  Hardy advised us to stop at the Dorslandtrek Memorial and read up the history of those very brave men and women.. along the way we passed over a few rivers, one in particular showed signs of recent flooding, a very stark reminder of the power of nature.

We dropped down onto the banks of the Kunene and followed the track Hardy had prepared for us.. the first piece was mix of twee spoor and some smallish riverbed crossings, with a few steep climbs with loose rocks, tennis ball sized and not easy to negotiate.  If you stopped, it was virtually impossible to get going again.  We dropped into an awesome riverbed and a few hooligans came out for a minute or two.. not sparing a  thought for the fuel being used up and the remaining mileage to reach Epupa..

From when I was last there in 2012, a new road had been built, making the overall journey a piece of cake. Much of the track we had ridden before had been washed away. We stopped in at a lodge/campsite called Camp Cornie. It advertised ice cold beer as you entered, so we drank it all.... :laughing4: the young bloke was so apologetic for not being able to provide us with more cold beer..so he promptly braaid some wors for us to keep us happy  :thumleft:
If you are ever in that part of the world, do make an effort to pull in and support these good people. It has a great campsite.  From there it an amazing piece of road or maybe it was just the beer.. After arriving at Epupa, my riding tjom stared at me in disbelief and said he had been chasing after me for the past 25km, only realising at that moment i had been behind all along.  oh, and 2 did run out of fuel...

This day was the first where I felt we had been tested.. I knew what was coming the following day, certainly more than what some of the others knew...  :eek:

The deck overlooking the falls is deserving of a visit or two. The bar, not so much.. not very friendly. Not sure why?  It was so nice to fall asleep with the gentle soothing rumble of the falls.








 

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Some more of Day 4

did I mention that we had a cheesy grinner in the group... otherwise known as Smarty or the non-winner of the Honda Quest..

a good nights rest was in order... tomorrow was route to Van Zyls Camp, the road of rock and sand...
 

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Day 5 Epupa to Van Zyls Camp

Another early start and warning from Hardy that we shouldn't dawdle and that we should pace ourselves... It was also going to be the day that Hardy would be mounting his pony and joining us.  For those that do not know, Hardy had damaged his foot quite badly after a trailer incident. It has been a very long and difficult road to recovery.  Today was going to be a test for sure.

The first 70km was more of the roads we had become used to, lots of wide open stuff intermingled with sandy patches and rocky bits here and there. The road veered due west at the town of Okangwati where we were to re-group and prepare for the next 70km.  Whilst hanging about and yakking, somebody noticed one of the 690's was leaking a bit of oil. It turned out that Brian had hit a rock on the road that had managed to penetrate the plastic sump guard and bend the edge of the magneto cover. Amazing how such a small nick can cause a leak. The gasket was damaged and needed to be repaired. Off with cover, the backup vehicle toolbox produced a tube of magic gasket repair stuff and voila, the flock of bald eagles had remedied the problem...

The road to Van Zyls is no walk in the park. it keeps on testing your wits, no chance to rest or lose concentration.  The problem is that if you do fall over, you will damage your bike and/or yourself, the terrain is unforgiving and unrelenting.  The day did not end without incident, some tired bodies and a twisted knee.  It was hard work.

I guess the most difficult part was yet to come as when we arrived at camp, there was no water (we had been warned) or facilities of any kind for that matter. The camp has gone to ruin, I guess the result of the sharp decline in paying visitors.  The solar pump at the borehole had stopped working.  Charles, Hein and Wayne dashed off to see what the problem was.  They did manage to get the pump working again and it produced water, only to have all their efforts doused by the setting sun. The next morning when we left the camp, the locals had already heard that the pump had been repaired and were gathering to collect the life giving clear liquid.  Well done to the boys for getting the borehole up and running.

Everyone slept well that night...except Daan senior.. he said the snoring kept him awake all night  :pot:

 

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Great report so far Elio.

As usual, your pics are superb.

 
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