The Traveling Tortoise - Full Time Living On The Road!!

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Joined
Mar 20, 2023
Messages
16
Reaction score
52
Location
Hoedspruit
Bike
KTM 890 Adventure R
THE TRAVELING TORTOISE - Live on the road with Werner & Cissy!
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Cissy & Werner (Me) and BIG O! (KTM 640 Adventure)

So where do I begin? Well maybe with a little background on who we are and how we got to this.
My name is Werner, born and raised in South Africa. A couple of years ago I got into the "Adventure Bike" game, based in Hoedspruit a couple of my friends have been riding for many years and have been telling me all about their two wheel adventures around the camp fires. So I had to get in on the action, as one do! The search for a bike began and I found something that has always been close to my heart. The KTM 640 Adventure, what a machine! Born and bred in the Dakar! Looks the part and acts the part! So this is where it all started, me and my Big O (KTM 640 ADV) hitting the roads with friends and the bug has bitten me really hard.

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Adventures with Big O and friends. Where it all started!

But as life has it work came into play and we went off for a long shoot. Cissy (my wife) and myself are wildlife filmmakers and spend a lot of time out in the bush in the middle of nowhere filming wildlife for channels like NatGeo, BBC, Animal Planet etc etc.
We left for an 8 months stint and man did I miss my Big O! One night around the camp fire we started talking and I shared this "idea" with her. "Lets sell everything and go travel the world on motorcycles!"
To my surprise she didn't say no, and asked "OK so how would we do that? And I am not sitting on the back! I want my own motorcycle!"
WOW!! Ok so its on! Let's start planning and talking. But there was a couple of issues.
1. Cissy has never risen or even sat on a motorcycle.
2. Cissy does not have a motorcycle.
3. What if she does not like it? (But come on who won't like it?)
4. We need to get gear, luggage, etc etc.

Ok ok you guys get the idea. This was not planning for a weekend away but we want to sell everything and travel full time. No life line just go for it.

We then started to make plans and make budgets and all that stuff you do. Looking at all the gear in the world etc etc. Our last 4 months of the shoot was spend around the fire in the evenings talking planning and dreaming. And me reading a lot of posts on this forum, when I found some signal under a tree somewhere.

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Dreaming of the big adventure!

Shoot done, back to Hoedspruit. Now lets get things moving. We got in contact with OpenRider in Johannesburg where Cissy did a riding course. This was fantastic! She went from never sitting on a bike (ok lets be real she is Dutch she grew up on bikes, but motorbikes I mean!) To riding, sliding and just having fun off road. She was riding a KTM Freeride on the course.
So YES! She liked it! Success!!!

Now we need to get her a bike.... She is pretty short... But I found a very good DRZ400 and swept it up. Got home and NO!! Her feet can't touch the ground at all!! No problem! We head to our very good friend Rory, an amazing motorcycle Mac! And we did the forks and springs. I shaved the seat a bit and off we went. Now this DRZ400 was not standard it had the Athena BIG BORE kit in, Hot rods and FCR Carb. It really motored!
So we took our two bikes and head into the mountains close to our hometown - Hoedspruit - there are beautiful gravel roads and forestry roads but they can be quite tricky. Good place to learn.

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Cissy's DRZ - First ride!

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Cissy's first proper ride 120km! On the DRZ and myself on Big O (KTM 640 Adv)


Cissy had about in total (riding time) on the DRZ.... About 20 Hours or so... and then it was time to leave. We had ran out of time on our apartment, so we started selling all our belongings. But we also decided to change our bikes, doing long distances and also on the road Cissy was getting a bit banged up on the DRZ. So with all the running around selling stuff (We had two months to go) we got her a second hand KTM 390 Adventure, I call it second hand as it was not new but it only had 14km on. Very funny story about this bike, the owner bought it for he's wife, she did one ride. Well if you can call 14km a ride and said she did not like it and did not want it.
Well Cissy LOVED the bike and it was perfect!

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All Smiles!!! First ride on the KTM 390 Adv - Heading back to Hoedspruit from Nelspruit, where we picked up the bike.

I got a second hand KTM 890 Adventure, both bikes came from the famous Alfie Cox. He sourced the bikes for us and we knew they where gold!
The Big O 640 Adv was not sold but went to the farm. Now being ridden around by my father and myself when ever I get there. Will never sell that bike! It is just amazing!

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A very happy man! My new KTM 890 Adventure R! At Nelspruit where we picked it up!


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On the way back home to Hoedspruit - Had to stop for some pancakes at Harrie's in Graskop. Dont these two look just so sexy!

Anyway! Everything sold and bikes packed! We hit the road... or do we? We just sold our Land Rover on the last night and it was a Friday! We had to stay over till Monday so we can do the transfer of ownership... come on man! We want to hit the road already! But this was actually a blessing, that morning we packed our two new steeds and rode them fully loaded for the first time! What a bunch of idiots! Yes we know... test test test.... but honestly we just did not have the time. So we pack the bikes and head to a friends house for the weekend... our trip has started! We on the road! 5km and stop! Haha! But we realised we packed to much! so the weekend was spend unpacking, repacking, repacking, repacking.... getting rid of everything we did not need. And weighing the bags balancing the bags etc etc all the stuff we where suppose to do.

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Bikes packed and leaving our home... way overpacked!

By the time Monday showed its face we had the packing down! So after all the paperwork... we did a final check and then hit the road! Oooo man are you kidding me??? But hey like any great adventure first stop.. petrol station! Soooo ok lets try again, bikes packed, final check, petrol in the bikes and YES! This time we really did hit the road!

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Bikes properly packed! And we have left on the open road to freedom!

This is where our journey starts, and as we ride out of Hoedspruit, a town we love so much. The weirdest feeling came over me, excitement but a feeling of lightness... a feeling of freedom and nerves... but just joy! What lies in front of us? Who knows? There is no real plan, just where ever the road takes us and where ever we want to go.

And all I could say was "Let's Ride!!!"

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I will try and write as much as possible when ever I can. Please be patient, we do live and travel in Africa so power, signal and all those things are not always with us.

To those that would like to also watch our stories. Look at our Youtube link below.

https://www.youtube.com/@thetravelingtortoise/featured


Thank you to everybody who read the first post. There are many more coming and I promise they will be more about riding! But it is good to have the back story.

Now LET'S RIDE!!!!
 
The only advice I have is to pay special attention to the microphones and sound when posting videos on YouTube.. if you standing far away from the mic when being asked a question.. stand closer so we can hear.

Looking forward to this one
 
Well done & happy travels! Do you have a rough idea of your route?
Thank you for the welcome! We do not have a route really, as we live on the road we ride and decide where we want to go and what we want to see as we go. Part of the freedom, not to be locked into a route. We also are taking it easy to pick the roads we are comfortable on and this has changed over time as our riding is getting better every day. Slow and stay! But stay tuned it only gets better and better!
 
The only advice I have is to pay special attention to the microphones and sound when posting videos on YouTube.. if you standing far away from the mic when being asked a question.. stand closer so we can hear.

Looking forward to this one
Thank you for the advice! It has been a steep learning curve for both of us and a bit of a hard one to get use to being on camera as both of us hate being infant of camera! Haha! But we getting there, we had a couple of issues with microphones and systems but we have sorted most of them out and we will keep trying to make it better. But thank you for the feedback.
 
Part 2 - FREEDOM IS A FUNNY THING...

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Cissy Cam - On the Panorama Route

Leaving Hoedspruit with the feeling of freedom, I imagine the old world explores must have had this sense of feeling when they hosted their anchors and set sail to unknown worlds. Ones mind is in a whirlwind, excitement, joy but also a bit nervous. Not knowing where the road leads to, this is not something to new to us. Our lives has always been a bit different than normal. Moving around a lot across borders and continents. But this was different, this was total freedom! Where ever we want to go we can.
My mind is processing these feelings and emotions as we travel on this road we have done so many times, but this time we won't return. The smell of the Low Veld, they warm air of the bush and then the climb into the mountains. I truly love this road and this mountain pass.
As we hit the tunnel, it felt like a symbol to me. Truly leaving our home now, entering the darkness of the unknown and exciting at the end into the light. This tunnel has always been special to us, it was like stepping trough a door welcoming us back home every time we went trough it. But this time it is special, letting us go and explore, anchors up, sails are set, the wind behind us and here we go.

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Werner Cam - The Special Tunnel (J.G.Strijdom Tunnel)

Climbing the mountains all the way to the top we pass all the familiar places and almost witness a truck hitting a cow. Nothing special on these roads.
Over the mountain we go and down the other side, we make our left turn towards Graskop. Riding on the Panorama route with its beautiful views on top of the mountain range we just climbed.

But with all the excitement and slow leaving the heat of the Africa sun has come out and said Good Day! So time to search for a place to stop for a drink and a sandwich Cissy has made this morning.
Options :
1. Stop for a nice view of the valley down below with no shade?
2. Stop at a petrol station with shade but its a petrol station?

It was HOT so yeah! Petrol station sounds good and there was a Liquor Store with ICE COLD drinks! Not going to pass that one up, we have seen these views a million times. But sometimes the view of an ICE COLD coke is one of the most beautiful things you can see!

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Pit stop for shade, sandwich and a cold drink.

After our little stop we hit the road again. The Panorama route is truly spectacular and one of our favourite places to go ride. The roads are in a good state and there are many beautiful look out points over the valley below and also stops where you can walk to the many waterfalls scattering this landscape. The famous Gods Window is also on this route. If you are ever in this area please do the Panorama Route and explore all the view points and waterfalls it is truly worth it.

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Panorama Route - Road Works

We hit a couple of roadworks, and finally we reach Graskop. As we enter Graskop we very quickly find a place to stop in the shade and search for a camp site for the evening. We did not come far today KM's wise but mentally we have crossed mountains and valleys. We phoned a camp site called Mac Mac Adventure's (The MacMac falls are a famous waterfall in this area, this is the land of Jock of the Bushveld) A famous story of a dog who was the runt of the litter but ended up being a hero. He lived in this area in the times of the big gold rush where people from all over the world rushed here in search for riches and new life. Books and movies has been made about this dog.

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Graskop - Some shade and arranging a camp site.

With a short ride out of Graskop we arrived at Mac Mac Adventures, but infant of us land a short but steep little gravel road. Full of loose rocks, we have done gravel many times before but never with these bikes or loaded bikes. But we head straight up the loose hill and reached the top where we where greeted with a campsite all to ourselves.

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Our first dirt - A steep hill with lots of loose stones. Entrance to Mac Mac Adventure's

We picked our home for the night and pitched our tent. I went to the little shop to get us some drinks and a celebrating chocolate slab. There was a statue of Jock at the entrance and it reminded me of the history of this land. A land not for the faint of heart and where your will and courage where more important than who you are or where you come from. A mark of victory, when you have a dream or a goal the only mountain in your way is yourself. A spend a couple of minutes here with this statue pondering about what we have just done.
Ok Ok, enough deep thoughts for the day! Lets enjoy a nice cold drink and our chocolate!

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Our Camp site - Mac Mac Adventures

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Dinner time!

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Tent setup - Ready for a good nights rest.

Back at camp we made a simple but delicious veggie stew and rice. Sat around the fire and just enjoyed live. Our first night in our tent was spend well, we both had a wonderful nights rest and woke up to the sight of a misty valley below us and sun lighting up the mountain tops.

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Morning Coffee Time!

We got the stove out and coffee and tea was what the day called for. Cissy made her breakfast and we started packing up our stuff. A new day! A new adventure!

Let's Ride!!

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More stories coming...

Anybody who wants to watch the video of this day here is the link.



Thank you everybody who is riding along!
 
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