The Unforgiven Trail - and the legends that tamed it

[Chantal Burger]

More pictures of Day 4

 

[BuRP]

Driving through the Kaokoland at night with a strong moon was an awesome experience. We stopped once or twice, just to stand outside and take it all in.

You forget to mention that you two saw two lion there, two males!
Dunno if your breathers outside were before of after that, I reckon before!

Riding approaching Puros was a hoot - wide open smooth sand just begging for high speeds so I did, only to discover during dismounting next to the beerstop Manchester that Andrew was on my heels

Puros camp is always a nice one, and this time we could use the chalets' beds also - which some did, a bit too warm for me.

 

[Catchy]

I must admit that I was a little worried about some of the riders. I have not had enough opportunity to see the de Villiers brothers riding and neither did I see the guys on the bigger bikes because of the issues we had with the trailer on day two.
It was my intention to see as much as possible of the new guys on day two, so that I was in a position to suggest the bail out route (or not) to the riders who might struggle with the Khowarib Schlught on day three.
The Schlught will test every aspect of your sand riding skills and it will become your worst nightmare if you are not truly comfortable on the never ending sand of the Ombonde and Hoanib riverbeds.

Luckily, my fears were unfounded and the riders mentioned above all turned out to be as resilient as pissed of honeybadgers because there in front of my eyes these newcomers and big bike riders ripped up the sand, one dustcloud after the other.

a Special mention goes out to Jean and Pierre de Villiers, and to Steve Stuart and Andrew Catchpole who told me prior to the tour that they have never really ridden sand this thick.
The two brothers grit their teeth and despite on or two nasty falls in the infamous fesh fesh traps they rode those riverbeds like kings.
Andrew and Steve was in front of us all the time and @hartebees and I were witnessing that special moment when everything clicks into place happening right in front of us.
Man it was beautiful to see..
@Catchy - I would not have wanted to be anywhere else in the world at that moment - thanks

Day 3 – Palmwag to Khowarib Camp

In previous years the ride through the Khowarib Schlucht was my favourite day the tour. This year we would be doing it from south to north, which means we would be doing the rocky section before we hit the Ombonde river.

As we left camp on the main road, Justin was parked 50m from the turn off, getting off his bike. I though that he wanted to take a photo of the rocky Palmwag landscape but as I stopped next to him he told me that he had a puncture on his rear wheel. Turns out he completely slashed his sidewall 50m into the days ride.

We had a spare rear D606 on the roof rack of the Cruiser so we replaced his tyre and tube and got going. We were probably about 30min behind the other riders by this point.

Fortunately we met up with the other riders not far from where the technical riding started. A long loose, rocky climb near Klein Van Zyls served as a nice welcoming card to the Kaokoland – I reckon this is where quite a few of the riders realised what they were really in for. With some sweat and swearing all the bikes got to the top and we continued through the Klein Serengeti plain. This year the grass was not as lush as usual and it was actually possible to see the track twisting and turning ahead.

The entire group, apart from Fred and Martin who had continued, regroup as we got to the riverbed. One by one they went off in a cloud of dust, attacking the thick riverbed sand.

Riding this riverbed is a very unique motorcycling experience. While you are constantly fighting the thick sand, drop-offs, massive Ana trees and other obstacles, the riverbed twists and turns sharply in front of you. The elephant dung is scattered all around and one could be standing right around the next corner as you are charging into it. And if you have time to look up you see the high walls of the riverbed, and over that the mountain range that envelopes the whole valley. A perfect mixture of fun and fear.

Andrew and Steve on the big bikes were at the back along with Bart and myself. We stopped regularly and I was starting to feel a bit concerned as they seemed very tired and weren’t attacking the sand as they should. At some point however they flipped a switch and changed their approach. After that they seemed to surf on top of the sand.

To be continued later today…

Day three was the first "testing" day of the trip, a day that would take its toll mentally and physically. One thing about riding in a group this size is that there is so much "hype" amongst the rides beforehand that for first time "tour" riders like myself and Steve you can easily start second guessing your own capabilities which is not great for confidence! I stopped at the base of Klein Van Zyl's waiting for a few riders to clear the climb knowing that the best way up with the T7 would be to maintain a steady pace and make sure I chose the best line. With second selected the T7 made it to the top in one go, this bike has amazing tractability making technical climbs a breeze for a bike this size. At the top we watched the last of the riders make their way up and then proceeded North down a much easier decent, or so it should have been. I was relaxed and chuffed with myself that I had cleared the first obstacle on which a few other riders (on smaller bikes) had issues. Heading down into the Klein Serengeti plain, while looking to my right at the beauty of the surrounds my front wheel slipped into a rut bringing the T7 down in an instant, shit! My first fall of the trip and a rude reminder that (especially on a big bike) concentration and focus will be required every second of the way. I managed to pick myself and the bike up, headed towards the nearest tree to straighten the handles bars when Jaco & Hardy stoped seconds later to assist in the realignment! Off I went..............................

 

[Catchy]

I must admit that I was a little worried about some of the riders. I have not had enough opportunity to see the de Villiers brothers riding and neither did I see the guys on the bigger bikes because of the issues we had with the trailer on day two.
It was my intention to see as much as possible of the new guys on day two, so that I was in a position to suggest the bail out route (or not) to the riders who might struggle with the Khowarib Schlught on day three.
The Schlught will test every aspect of your sand riding skills and it will become your worst nightmare if you are not truly comfortable on the never ending sand of the Ombonde and Hoanib riverbeds.

Luckily, my fears were unfounded and the riders mentioned above all turned out to be as resilient as pissed of honeybadgers because there in front of my eyes these newcomers and big bike riders ripped up the sand, one dustcloud after the other.

a Special mention goes out to Jean and Pierre de Villiers, and to Steve Stuart and Andrew Catchpole who told me prior to the tour that they have never really ridden sand this thick.
The two brothers grit their teeth and despite on or two nasty falls in the infamous fesh fesh traps they rode those riverbeds like kings.
Andrew and Steve was in front of us all the time and @hartebees and I were witnessing that special moment when everything clicks into place happening right in front of us.
Man it was beautiful to see..
@Catchy - I would not have wanted to be anywhere else in the world at that moment - thanks

After the Klein Serengeti we dropped into the infamous Khowarib Schlught. On entry everyone was parked under a massive Anna Tree having lunch and preparing for what lay ahead. As mentioned, being Gauteng boys Steve and myself had never really ridden sand of this nature on the big bikes. In fact, this was the T7's first introduction to any form of soft sand. Once all the (Cheats) on the smaller bikes had departed it was time to suffer! Steve and I tried "pussy footing the big bikes for the first 3Km. I don't recall either of us falling, but man we were struggling, physically straining to keep the bikes going in the right direction. At one point I found myself to the far left of the riverbed, stuck in a soft spot with the bike bottomed out on the bash plate. There was a tree a meter away and decided that I need to take a break in the shade, a few sips from my hydration pack and wait for Jaco & Hardy to help me out. It was at this point where Steve and I realized that we need to urgently rethink our approach! As Hardy & Jaco mentioned, it was like flipping a switch! We pulled away from there in second gear, accelerated hard up to third (sometimes 4th.) and never looked back, what a revelation! Later on, Steve and I stopped next to each other and commented, like WTF dude, this is not so hard! From there on the sand was never really an issue again, in fact I was enjoying it. I would rather ride the sand of Namibia that the shitty corrugated dirt roads. Hardy described that riding a bike (especially a big bike) in the sand is like driving a boat. You need to accelerate hard from pull away and get your boat/bike on a plain, ride it on top of the sand not through it! Dankie Hardy, bly ek kon jou entertain!
After exiting the river and getting through all the feshfesh pockets we arrived at the river crossing just in time to see the Cruiser recover Justins DRZ from the mud and water, not before making it to the other side ourselves using the now obvious safer line on the far left. From there to camp was uneventful and time to reflect on what had just happened. I personally had a feeling of achievement, but those first few Km's in the sand had taken their toll on my hands and arms. Something that would plague me for the rest of the trip.....................

 

[Catchy]

Day 4 – Khowarib to Purros

After a champion’s breakfast of Taystee Wheat, we set off to Sesfontein to refuel.

We pass the infamous low water bridge just outside of camp where Fred came off last year. This year it was bone dry - disappointing!

Arriving at Sesfontein we are told that they are out of fuel. No petrol, no diesel. After weighing up the different options we refuel the bikes from the fuel drums in the Unimog. Hardy organises 200 liters of petrol and 200l of diesel to be brought to Purros for when we return there 3 days later. Hein will bring it from Swakopmund. Greg and myself would have to return later today when the fuel station is restocked.

The roads are badly corrugated all the way to Purros. Alan and Greg have their hands full to get the trailer to camp.

We pass the first of the Lone Men of the Kaokoland and have our lunch in the shade of a rock overhang.

Not far after lunch @Aprilian stands underneath a tree with his bike dead. @Runner and @Catchy help to trace the problem to a dead battery. The battery was not secured with the rubber strap and has shaken itself to pieces. Hardy has a spare at hand and after slotting in the spare battery we continue onwards to the Gribies Plains.

Most of the riders stop at Manchester United Tavern upon their arrival at Purros but are disappointed to find that the beer is not as cold as they dreamed it would be on the road.

At camp we unload the bakkie, load fuel drums and Greg and I take the Cruiser back to Sesfontein. We arrive there just after dark and meet the manager of the fuel station as arranged. We get the required fuel (370l petrol, 120l diesel), and head back. We arrived at camp at around 23:30 if I recall correctly. Chantal has food and coffee ready for us and after gulping down our meal we immediately hit the stretchers after a long day.

Driving through the Kaokoland at night with a strong moon was an awesome experience. We stopped once or twice, just to stand outside and take it all in. The stars are bright even with the moon alight. The veld that seems a bit dead during the day seemingly comes alive at night.

Highlight of day 4, room with a view……that “strong moon” made sleeping a challenge.

 

[NIMMO]

... back to the second half of day 3.

After the Ombonde river joins the Hoanib, there were patches of standing water. As mentioned by @m0lt3n, the track then takes you in and out of the river. Where it becomes marshy, you had to climb out on an embankment that is deeply rutted and covered with a thick layer of fesh-fesh. We had briefed some of the newer riders on what to expect when you encounter fesh-fesh but no words can really prepare you for it.

@BuRP, @JeanDV and @Blackspar overshot the exit, saw some elephants further down the river and turned back. @BuRP climbed out first, creating a massive dust cloud. @JeanDV was hot on his heels and suddenly he found himself in the claws of the fesh-fesh. I couldn't see around the corner but his bike suddenly went quiet. I walked around the corner and there he was, lying on his back with the bike on top if him, completely covered in dust. (I got flashbacks from the previous year where @NIMMO also had a similar experience.) I think Jean approached the following fesh-fesh areas with a lot more caution.

We got to another water crossing and found @JustBendIt with his bike stuck in the river. He had one or two unplanned dismounts earlier in the day and didn't want to waste more energy trying to pull it out. We used a tow strap and pulled it free with the Cruiser.

From there it is a short distance to camp, riding some flowing, stoney trails through the canyon. At the entrance of the camp, @darthvader somehow injured his foot (I'm not sure exactly how it happend, maybe he can tell the story), but his foot was quite swollen. Fortunately the next day he was able to continue riding. He never mentioned anything but I think he had to endure some pain from there onwards. Respect.

One of many fond memories - I have a score to settle in Nam.

 

[JeanDV]

Nog ‘n paar fotos van dag 4, ‘n paar rivierbeddens met klippe en mooi oop stukke!

Rus kans onder ‘n lonely man!

@hartebees en @Blackspar vergelyk notas

‘n Paar lang Tafels in die koelte saam Steve @Runner @BuRP @Catchy @Blackspar

Open room met n view!

 

[Runner]

.

 

[Hardy de Kock]

During the drive on day 4 (Khowarib to Puros) I had the opportunity to think about the expectations I had of this diverse group of riders. Chantal was in the bakkie with me and it was interesting to hear her thoughts on how she perceived the riders too.
Keep in mind that most of what you know about the majority of the riders is the stuff you read on the forum and the whats app group that is created a few months prior to the tour.

I know he will probably call me a female body part for doing this but l am going to use @Runner as an example.
I mentioned before that Conrad (Runner) never minces his words and that you would be forgiven for thinking he suffers from Tourette syndrome. Prior to the tour he told me that he is joining us for a holiday and that he WILL NOT touch a broken bike. He made me promise not to ask for his help and to forget the fact that he is a motorcycle mechanic and bike shop owner.

The DR belonging to @JeanDV developed a broken starter button somewhere between Windhoek and Usakos and refused to do its job just after we offloaded the bikes in Usakos.

Without him being asked to assist, Conrad wandered over and suggested we bridge the starter until we got to camp, which we subsequently did.
After we arrived at camp Conrad asked for my toolkit and spent the rest of the afternoon working on the DR to restore it back to willing rider / willing bike condition. I was assisting him and reminded him of the promise he required of me prior to the trip. With a simple "fokof" he carried on and didn't stop until Jean once again had a smile on his face and a tour to look forward to.

This willingness to assist never stopped and every time a rider and his bike needed assistance Conrad was there - usually with a bark of commands about which tools would be required before he got on with it - the job of making sure riders stay mobile. I must mention that his good friend @Catchy always joined him in this noble task.

Dankie Ysters - Julle was presies wie ek gedink het julle gaan wees, en ek is moer bly julle het besluit om saam te kom.

 

[edgy]

I’ve always known Conrad to be extremely helpful…..even while he swears you upside down

 

[Vintage_Mania]

During the drive on day 4 (Khowarib to Puros) I had the opportunity to think about the expectations I had of this diverse group of riders. Chantal was in the bakkie with me and it was interesting to hear her thoughts on how she perceived the riders too.
Keep in mind that most of what you know about the majority of the riders is the stuff you read on the forum and the whats app group that is created a few months prior to the tour.

I know he will probably call me a female body part for doing this but l am going to use @Runner as an example.
I mentioned before that Conrad (Runner) never minces his words and that you would be forgiven for thinking he suffers from Tourette syndrome. Prior to the tour he told me that he is joining us for a holiday and that he WILL NOT touch a broken bike. He made me promise not to ask for his help and to forget the fact that he is a motorcycle mechanic and bike shop owner.

The DR belonging to @JeanDV developed a broken starter button somewhere between Windhoek and Usakos and refused to do its job just after we offloaded the bikes in Usakos.

Without him being asked to assist, Conrad wandered over and suggested we bridge the starter until we got to camp, which we subsequently did.
After we arrived at camp Conrad asked for my toolkit and spent the rest of the afternoon working on the DR to restore it back to willing rider / willing bike condition. I was assisting him and reminded him of the promise he required of me prior to the trip. With a simple "fokof" he carried on and didn't stop until Jean once again had a smile on his face and a tour to look forward to.

This willingness to assist never stopped and every time a rider and his bike needed assistance Conrad was there - usually with a bark of commands about which tools would be required before he got on with it - the job of making sure riders stay mobile. I must mention that his good friend @Catchy always joined him in this noble task.

Dankie Ysters - Julle was presies wie ek gedink het julle gaan wees, en ek is moer bly julle het besluit om saam te kom.

'n Mens kan baie leer van iemand net om aandag te gee hoe hy diere hanteer, veral rondloop diere en ek glo daar is 'n voorbeeld hier vir almal.

Maar dit maak hom nie wors kan braai nie, ooo fok tog.

 

[Runner]

'n Mens kan baie leer van iemand net om aandag te gee hoe hy diere hanteer, veral rondloop diere en ek glo daar is 'n voorbeeld hier vir almal.

Maar dit maak hom nie wors kan braai nie, ooo fok tog.

Vra jou sussie van wors insit....

 

[Vintage_Mania]

Vra jou sussie van wors insit....

Ek sê mos, hy sê jy kannie...

 

[Grunder]

'n Mens kan baie leer van iemand net om aandag te gee hoe hy diere hanteer, veral rondloop diere en ek glo daar is 'n voorbeeld hier vir almal.

Maar dit maak hom nie wors kan braai nie, ooo fok tog.

So 'n DR word hier vergelyk met 'n rondloper kat?

 

[BuRP]

So 'n DR word hier vergelyk met 'n rondloper kat?

Nee, met n alleenloper kat - soortvan einste soos n DR van na sy eie bash toe gaan!
Geen Hondas toegelaat nie.... en jy weet Conrad word "Meneer XR SA genoem", tog?

 

[hartebees]

Day 5 – Purros to Marble Camp

The decision was made to leave the trailer behind and fit the required kitchen equipment into the Unimogs. We would return to Purros after two nights at Marble Camp.

Today we ride up the Hoarusib river, then cross a short rocky pass and climb into the Khumib river. After that you cross the Otjiha plains and arrive at camp.

The Hoarusib river is full of wildlife - Elephants, giraffe and antelope. There are also countless tracks going either through the riverbed or next to it. This means that no two riders will ride the same track today. Fun for the riders, but a bit stressful for Hardy and I who need to sweep and provide backup. But we could sense that a lot, if not all of the riders, was keen for this day of riverbed riding – the Khowarib day whetted their appetite.

I met Pierre and Robert atop the first koppie outside camp where I had a good view of the riders passing through. Soon after that I followed Werner and Robert in the river and we saw multiple herds of giraffe, stopping to take photos and videos. Conservatively estimating I would say we saw 30 giraffe that morning.

After exiting the Hoarusib we met up for lunch at a rock overhang. Everybody’s spirit was high. It kind of has to be after the fun riding they had just done.

The Khumib river is a lot drier and since it was now around noon the temperature was a lot higher. Combined with thicker sand and lots of rocks, the Khumib section is a lot harder work to ride. We met up with some fatigued riders along the way but fortunately there were no serious incidents or accidents.

At the point where the coastal road (that the trucks use) cross our track we met up with the rest of the crew. Hardy got on the bike and I drove the last 20km with Chantal in the cruiser. That aircon was bliss!

When we got to camp Hardy told me that the front wheel felt a bit unstable to him. The wheel bearings had started to develop some free play. I had brought a set of front and rear wheel bearing in my luggage so I replaced them. Conrad walked over to see what I was doing and I learned a few new bike maintenance tricks from him. When I wanted to refit my wheel the steel caliper bolt had damaged the thread so out came the helicoil kit and the repair made. Conrad also fixed an issue I had with my speedo cable wiring. I was deeply appreciative of the help as I knew the alternative of sitting in the shade and drinking something cold would have been a lot more appealing to him. Thanks again Conrad.

At this point Justin was having issues with his DRZ’s clutch cable and Steve had a leaky front tubeless wheel, but both of these issues only came to a head the following morning.

There is a certain peacefulness to the Marble campsite. The only other thing I recall about that day is sitting next to the fire and being in a happy place. It had been a good day.

 

[hartebees]

 

[hartebees]

Some videos I took from the top of the koppie.

 

[BuRP]

Upon leaving Puros I was following a few others but these took a different route, so I decided I'd string my own route along. Somewhere a few others (Pierre & Jean?) joined I think but we saw a few giraffe so we stopped - and took a pic

Then further on, after the 'Martian landscape' (no pics from me, hope some will upload a few...) I saw the only shaded place along the route which I remembered from the last time... so parked quickly!

My pics of Day 5...

 

[JeanDV]

Some highlights of day 5

Heading out Johan and Pierre checking routes.

Jaco still enjoying that beast of a WR450

Warrelwind

Camel horse in the distance

Marble mine

Marble camp