The Warm Heart of Africa - by PopFunPlot & a Lady (Complete at LAST ... !!!)

[Oetie]

Great stuff, was worth the wait :thumleft: :thumleft:

 

[Goose]

Oh sooo nice! Thanks Plottie - there's inspiration there for Mrs Goose!  :thumleft:

 

[OX]

Awesome , my uncle sttod on a mine in 1996 in Jangamo , luckly only the detinator went off but it messed with his head badly . My 950 is comming shortly....................

 

[popipants]

Well done Plotty. Awesome as always!!

Now I see why I'm not allowed to write anything  :'( :'( :'( :'(
Dam Dutchmen!

 

[Piston Pete]

Awesome guys :thumleft: Keep it rollin'  ;D

 

[roxenz]

Great trip, great report!  I kept my eyes open for you guys, but although covered a lot of similar ground, we were just not in the same place at the same time!  Keep it coming.

 

[Scrat]

:thumleft: :thumleft:

NICE!!! look's like Moz just moved up on my list of trips to do!

 

[umshiniwam]

Awesome so far...looking forward to seeing the rest!

 

[Ou Ryperd]

Baie dankie PopfunPlot & Ma-plot,

This is another great report and trip!  :thumleft:

 

[Succi]

Man oh man, this is SOOO lekker!  :thumleft:  :thumleft:
Eendag ,as ek mooi groot is, gaan ek dit ook doen! 

 

[Stofstreep]

I Would like to succumb .... erm.... I mean, subscribe!!!!
Keep em coming! :thumleft:

 

[popipants]

We did spend a bit of time debating which one of the following two "units" had more horsepower;

This:

or this:

Not sure about the horsepower...but at least we agree that both the Jesus donkey and the GSA is holy  :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

 

[Ronin]

:drif:

 

[Leo]

Nice ones guys - eventually  :thumleft:

We need the rain  ;D ;D

 

[Gee eS]

This is a great report, bring it on. Did you buy the braai grid from ADV Designs or did you make it your self?

 

[popipants]

This is a great report, bring it on. Did you buy the braai grid from ADV Designs or did you make it your self?

Bought it at outdoor warehouse. But you must assemble it before drinking too much Jameson

 

[Plothond]

Day 4 – 4th May 2009 : Gorongosa (Mocambique) to Nchalo (Malawi)  
Route: MOZ - Muera, Caia, Vila de Sena, Mutarara, MALAWI – Nsanje, Bangula, Nchalo (Lengwe)
Distance: 409km
Fuel: Caia (very modern), Nchalo. Also at Nsanje and Bangula but not reliable
Border costs: Moz – nil, Malawi – Temp import permit MK 1200.00 (approx R 70.00)
Also checked our Yellow Fever cards
Accomodation costs: Nyala Lodge: Entrance US$ 5.00 per bike and camping US$ 6.00 per person. Excellent camping and facilities, Bar & menu


We had so hoped for the weather to have cleared by morning, but it was not to be so and I woke to the soft sound of a light drizzle and the odd large drop from the overhanging trees above.

Everything was damp and with precious little time to dry the tents, we had an early morning cuppa and packed our wet tents.

It was rather fresh to say the least and soon we were riding through wet potholes on the tar road

Funacide spotted a rather large baobab and we stopped for a break.

The rain had softened the earth and the KTM soon ended up on it’s side.

We reached Caia and this was one of my best fuel consumption figures on the trip at 5.8 litres/100km.
From Caia the road became dirt and took us north on the EN213 to Vila de Senna on the banks of the Zambezi river

Here we were to experience a rather rude awakening – there was no way to cross the river and the words on the map which said “Long Bridge” actually referred to the Dona Ana RAILWAY bridge – over 4km long

What a sight !!! We did not expect this. The Dona Ana spans the lower Zambezi River between the towns of Vila de Sena and Mutarara in Mozambique, effectively linking the two halves of the country. It was built by the Portuguese in 1934 during the Portuguese rule of Mozambique, and blown up by RENAMO soldiers during the Mozambican Civil War (1977-1992), after independence from Portugal in 1975.
It was originally constructed as a railway bridge to link Malawi and the Moatize coal fields to the port of Beira.

The 4km-long Dona Ana Bridge, at that time the longest railway bridge in Africa. In 1995, it was repaired with funds from USAID and converted to a single-lane bridge for vehicle traffic which provided an alternative route over the Zambezi, the only other two options being the bridge at Tete and the road ferry at Caia.

The Dona Ana Bridge is the longest bridge to cross the Zambezi and was the last before its mouth in the Indian Ocean. In 2007 construction started on a bridge to replace the Caia ferry, which (though shorter) would become the last bridge before the mouth. Dona Ana Bridge was closed to vehicular traffic in July 2006, and work to reconvert it to a railway bridge was started. It was scheduled to be again in operation by 2008 but was still under repair when we got there.

We did not know that the line was effectively inactive and decided that we were definitely not turning back now and took to the pedestrian walkway. This alone, was an exercise in diplomacy and balance as the walkway was full of commuters and only JUST wider than our panniers.

It was blisteringly hot we only took a short break on the other side before moving on. The road was now a “Twee-spoor” and very sandy in places.

This chap used local transport to cross the bridge in his commute between the two opposite towns. We met a lot of these "loner" type individuals or pairs. He was in Moz on a foreign grant to teach the locals how to do the best farming using the flood plains.

Always friendly, the youngsters approached us first. Always interested and always a big big smile

Again we were chasing time but still had high hopes of reaching Blantyre and possibly Zomba beyond. I had so hoped we could go to the Zomba plateau, spend a night there and relive memories of 20 years ago when we back-packed through Malawi. But first we had to reach Malawi.

Even though it was still effectively Winter - the heat was unbearable and when a patch of shade presented itself, a dismount and restbreak was imperative

The Moz border was once again testimony of the poor state that Africa is in. I can accept if nothing is there, or if it never was there – but here one can see – IT WAS THERE !!! Years of Civil war destroyed what obviously once was a beautiful border and railway crossing and the decay which is so synonymous of Africa did the rest.

Malawi was an interesting change. The border post although much simpler was also old and in a bad way – but somehow acceptable. Again travel in Africa was to teach us a lesson – do not be in a hurry and DO NOT chase a destination. We got there at lunch time and were very politely told to wait the 45 minutes until lunch was over.

Ma-plotter was very interested in the menu and whilst we looked on in a semi disinterested disdain, she sat down to Capenta, boiled spinach leaves and some other type of cous-cous, all eaten out of the same bowl with ones hands. The official was very talkative but to rush him was to be of no use. Formalities after the midday break took another 40 minutes and by now hope was fading of making Zomba and Blantyre became the target.

Once again it was the children - almost a nuisance, but never overbearing

Yet again the lesson was learnt – local currency rules. We could not get fuel in Nsanje by paying in Rands and we were to be literally financially raped if we paid in dollars and precious time was lost fruitlessly trying to exchange at the local bank. Do not even try to change money in these remote area's

We left this filling point without refueling

At Bangula, we succumbed to the extortion and bought about 8 litres for each of the two KTMS.
A great portion of this road is currently under construction and it varied from excellent grade to absolutely terrible thick powdery dust – the latter more the norm than the exception.

One of the better sections

.... and a taste of things to come

At Nchalo we bought some cooldrink, lots of water and some crisps. The thought of travelling the last 70km to Blantyre in the dark was not a happy one. Travel in Africa in the dark is not recommended – period!!!!!

Just after Nchalo we got to a roadblock and enquired as to local accommodation. The police officer told us to turn left and go to Lengwe National Park 8km away. He even offered to escort us – I thought my wife was going to kiss him.

A great find this was and after pitching camp in the face of a threatening thunder storm, we rushed to the restaurant as the first angry drops bounced off the earth around us. Dinner was a lovely affair, we tested ALL the local beers and polished off some tasty steaks blissfully unaware of the drama unfolding in the sodden earth at our campsite a few hundred metres away.

 

[GreenMamba1974]

**subscribed**

awesome, reading with great interest!!!  :thumleft:

 

[Mark Hardy]

Ma-plotter was very interested in the menu and whilst we looked on in a semi disinterested disdain, she sat down to Capenta, boiled spinach leaves and some other type of cous-cous, all eaten out of the same bowl with ones hands.

;D that was my staple diet as a youngster growng up in Zambia  :biggrin:

:happy1:

I'm in for the rest of the ride.

 

[Plothond]

Day 5 – 5th May 2009 : Nchalo – Cape Mc Clear
Route: Nchalo, Chikwawa, Blantyre, Zomba, Liwonde, Mangochi, Monkey Bay
Distance: 343km
Fuel: Freely available
Border costs:n/a
Accomodation costs: Fat monkeys MK 1000.00 p/p/night (Approx R 50.00). Basic but clean accommodation in dormatories, Clean Toilets, Hot showers, Bar


I was not happy, Poppipants philosophical and Funacide just plain indifferent !!!

The SOD !!! – Although his bike had suffered the same fate the day before, the difference was that only his pride was dented !!!
Not only were my panniers dented – but the frames were broken. This was not good. The deluge the evening before had softened the ground and rendered our campsite rather unpleasant to say the least. The laden BMW and KTM had fallen over, off their stands.

A quick fix to prevent it happening again

A sodden campsite - who would have believed that this much rain would fall out of season

The restaurant at the lodge - a venue with great meals and even tastier beer

Ma-Plotter looking fresh as a daisy  ;D :thumleft:

The fun a games however, were not over and the roads in the park turned into snot !!!  

It just got worse and the mud siezed up the front wheel. The only alternative was to remove the front mudguard before it broke

Ever on the lookout for a nice pic - Ma-Plot found this nice composition

The roads through the sugar cane were well graded and giving it a GOOD go on the dirt was just what we needed  :ricky:

The evening before we had met Brendan McConnell, his wife and Renier from CLM Civils Mozambique. Their contract with Illovo had just expired and they were spending the last few months de-establishing their workshops. My KTM was lined up alongside the massive CASE articulated tractors and inbetween the intermittent power failures, the welder employed exceptional skill in welding my paper-thin frames with his 300 amp machine.

Now our route took us into the hills - it was great to be climbing again and working through the gears. The boring monotony of the flat Mocambican roads was behind us

We crossed the Shire and climbed the beautiful hills into clean and inspiring city of Blantyre. After doing the banking thing our route went through Zomba and sadly I could not go up to the plateau as time just did not allow it – Next time !!


Another roadblock

... and some more magnificent views. Even the bikes were happy to being put through their paces again and arose to the occasion with aplomb  

Generally, the roads were in great nick as well

Funacide was parched and when he saw a roadside pub advertised at Liwonde – that was IT. The quick Stop for one Green soon turned into four and a late lunch.  :mwink:

The beer was going down VERY well !!!!  :biggrin:

This pile of notes was literally worth only a few hundred Rand - actually quite a joke !!!

Obviously literacy (or rather the lack thereof) has it's advantages  >

Chasing the dying afternoon sun was futile and just after Mangochi we conceded that darkness, insomniac goats, crazed Malawian drivers and 12 billion gnats were to accompany us on the suicidal push to Monkey Bay and then over a pass to Cape McClear in the pitch black dark of night.

I was leading, and twice I followed what I thought was the road and ended up in a plowed field. Turning a laden Adventure bike around in these conditions was interesting and the Oxford dictionary will definitely have some variants on commonly used expletives added to it in the next edition.

Guided only by the small backlit screen of the GPS, we wove through the village of Cape McClear, up alleys and along darkened roadways. With the memory of Vilanculous still fresh in our minds, Popipants later admitted that he was a very concerned citizen at this stage.

When the inviting gates and softly lit courtyard of Fat Monkeys came into view, only then did the tension ease and we could relax.
This place was a Gem. A hurried rate negotiation ensued, rooms were sourced and we shot down to the beach bar like flies to freshly dropped dung.

THIS is why we were here – WE HAD ARRIVED at Lake Malawi  :drif:
Our first beer on the shores of the lake

Our bar bill - exclusive stationary is not a priority at Fat Monkey's. The food was good and that it all that counted right now

With the sounds of the lake waters lapping only 6 metres from the bar, we relaxed into the evening - the anticipation of what the next day would bring growing and growing .......

aaahhh ... this was the life !!!!!!!!!!!!!!