KOES AND OTHER PLEASANT PLACES

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After collecting my bike, we re-traced yesterday’s journey back onto the B4 and continued further South of Keetmanshop towards some liquid refreshment, apple cake and fuel at the Seeheim Hotel.
 

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One pint stretched to two but we eventually prized ourselves away to continue our journey to Helmeringausen.  The road was tar until Bethanie, then good gravel after.  But the wind was so strong, GT and I were grateful to arrive.  We marked the occasion by sharing a bottle of red, which we had to finish before either of us could even contemplate springing into action.  GT had his first technical glitch at Bethanie.  For some reason his bike wouldn’t switch off.  He had to pull out all the fuses and relays when we arrived at Helmeringhausen so the battery wouldn’t drain.
 

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Fortunately our pal Flossie knows the owners of Helmeringhausen and had made arrangements for us to stay in rooms and get an evening meal.  GT even put on a clean shirt to mark the occasion.  The soup, Springbok fillet and dessert was excellent.  We both slept very well after that.  I liked a painting by Paul Munro that was hanging over the fire place.  Such amazing detail.  It reminded me of the Dutch fine artists and their bowls of fruit.  I found out later that Paul Munro is a South African surfer, artist and adventurer.  Maybe that’s why I liked his painting.  Kindred spirits.
 

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Day 6
After helping ourselves to the buffet breakfast and a number of coffee’s, we were about to take a tour of the farm when Bjorn mentioned to me “Do you know you have a flat front tyre?”  Always the optimist, I was grateful it happened at the Hotel and thought it a good opportunity to learn how to change my first inner tube.  It was fairly easy, particularly as I didn’t have to do it at the roadside.
 

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Turns out the flat was caused by the tube rubbing against the rough edges of a restraint, installed within the tyre to prevent it slipping from the rim.  Fortunately I’d brought two new tubes with me.  I carefully inserted one and used Bjorn’s compressor to inflate the tyre (GT’s compressor burned out after inflating the policeman’s tyre on day 1).  I was chuffed to get the work done but annoyed when the soapy water we added to the rim started bubbling.  Indicating that I’d pinched the tube.

I repeated the process with a new tube and mended the punctures in the others.  This time I took extra care not to pinch the tube and hey presto! I pinched it again.  By the time I’d returned with some beers from the coolbox in GT’s sidecar, Bjorn had replaced the tube and was successfully inflating it.  I later learned I should have partially inflated the tube before fitting the tire  You live and you learn.
 

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A little later than anticipated, Bjorn took me on a tour of the farm and showed me the cottages he had built and the partially constructed Chapel he was busy with.  Made from Windhoek draft bottles.
We got back at midday to find a happy GT.  After a phone call to BMW Windhoek, he’d discovered his bike wouldn’t turn off due to a loose cover on the ignition.  Based on Bjorn’s advice and as it was getting late, we changed our plan and took the C14, rather than the C27, North from Helmeringhausen.  Apparently the C27 is pretty sandy and many bikers fall in it.
 

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I think the worst section of road we encountered was the last 40km, leading towards Maltahohe.  It was shockingly corrugated and my bike snaked plenty.  I was pretty shook up by the time we stopped for fuel.  But slamming my fingers in a door helped take my mind off it. Doh!

After this, the road became good again and we managed to dodge the same treacherous “stofgate” we encountered on the first day.  We got to the road leading to the Solitaire Guest Farm at about 17:30.  I hesitated at the start, as the sandy track brought back memories of my fall at the entrance to Koes Pan.  I didn’t have time to think though as GT’s “stof” and his words “Take it slow” drifted past me.  Fortunately the track looked worse than it was and I got to the campsite in one piece.

We unpacked our tents, paid a small fortune for braai wood and started cooking up two of the seven braai packs we’d been given by the WD’s leaving Koes.  We kicked ourselves for not taking the spare Koes wood too.
 

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Day 7
GT had me awake much earlier than I wanted, but softened the blow with a Polisiekoffie delivered to my tent.  I surfaced as GT returned from a shower, which apparently had turned cold just at the end. 
After breakfast (Thanks GT)….. and some detective work.  We found another shower block with a water heater.  I jumped in but soon after, the water was freezing.  With soapy suds in my hair that had to be washed out, I shouted so much, GT came to check that I was okay.
 

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We set-off early and kicked ourselves that we hadn’t gotten fuel the evening before as we had to wait for a supply tanker to off-load.  We were actually very lucky.  Shimbungu said there was no fuel two days earlier when he’d passed through.  The car he was in, tried to make it to Walvis, but ran out of steam 20km away.  The guys in the same car also told us that the road was terrible for about 40km outside of Solitaire.  They were wrong.  The road was terrible all the way through Kuiseb Pass.  For about 120km.  Completely ripped up by the huge volume of tourists.

After stopping at all the usual fag landmarks, including my favourite and the closest to home, Fogglefeederburg……

 

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We got back to Martin’s at 14:00, unpacked and sat in his garage for a few hours, reflecting on the monster journey and drinking the remainder of the red papsak I’d bought in Bethanie.  After a shower, we shared a Springbok potjie which was very good and spicy. Thanks again Flossie.
 

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Lekker trip and RR you two. It was great to meet. :thumleft:
 
Nice one indeed, I like guys that kuier around the "kospotte" while camping..
 
It was great meeting you, I'll definitely look you up for a drink or two if I am ever in Walvisbaai.  This is a nice travelling group, and very well organised. Everything just appears out of the sidecar  :thumleft:
 
Lekker RR  ;D

Nice meeting all of you  :thumleft: till next year then  :pot:
 
Wow, that was a great RR. Thanks for sharing :thumleft:
 
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