NAMIBIAN MEANDER - 2009

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Man this report brings back so many memories! Excellent report - definitely one of my favourites!

This picture reminded me of something...

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Maverick and I had swapped bikes which meant I was on his R100GS and he was on my KLR. I was riding down this very road at about 90km/h enjoying the sand and I was so tempted to wring the GS' neck but kept telling myself that it's not my bike and how would I feel if I were to damage my good friend's pride and joy etc etc. The next moment Maverick came charging past on the KLR, standing on the pegs doing about 110km/h. That's good friends for you... :eek: :biggrin:
 
Sjoe! Lovely!

You were very lucky, we got turned around at Sprinbok Wasser. It was terrible having to ride back and miss out.

Thanks for the report.
 
Thanks for the report.Your pictures are outstanding.Will definately use this report a referance. :thumleft:
 
DAY 17
Arrive: SESRIEM
Distance: +/- 310 km
Time out:  7.15 am – 3.00 pm

Packed up early and set off eastwards on the C14 knowing that this would be less travelled and quieter road. It was extremely cold and I was most grateful for the cheap windbreaker I purchased in Walvis Bay. The sand on either side of the road was pale grey in colour, the heavy cloud cover hung low and the mist we travelled through gave our surroundings a ghostly appearance. There is a 50 km mist belt from the coast going inland. Within this area there is an ecosystem that relies solely on the mist for survival. In the summer months Namibia experiences a Westerly wind, bringing cool air from the ocean and in winter the Easterly wind brings in the warmer air from the interior.

The condition of this gravel road was good and soon after leaving the mist belt we came across a sign pointing to Vogelverderberg on the right hand side.( One has to be careful about the correct pronunciation of many of the  names of places in Namibia as they can sometimes sound more than colourful. Kingsley found it particularly difficult to get his tongue around Duwisib and Ludzputz.) For some reason a permit was necessary to enter this area and we decided to stretch our legs and walk up to this outcrop of rock that looked interesting enough to warrant a visit. It must have provided shelter for the San (bushmen) at some stage in history as there was a cave-like area providing a bit of overhang. Would not recommend a visit to the little hut as this is a well used and abused ‘longdrop’ (primitive toilet with no flushing system).


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The little hut is on the right hand side.

Shortly after leaving this place it started to warm up and the road started to deteriorate. Corrugations alternated with sandy patches and had to keep reminding myself that accelerating, instead of breaking, would keep me in the saddle and out of the sand. We travelled through two lovely passes, the first being the KUISIB PASS which is partly tarred and it takes you out of the NAMIB NAUKLUFT PARK. Didn’t see any wildlife though. The next pass was the GAUB PASS. Riding down into the bottom of the pass made for lovely views.
For those readers who are interested, “ THE SHELTERING DESERT”  by Henno Martin  is a thought provoking adventure of two German geologists disappearing into the Namib desert to avoid internment during World War 2. Martin is very good at describing the vastness and natural wonders of this particular area.
The terrain changed to rock and savannah grass and the combination of yellow and black was strangely beautiful.


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Traveling such a long distance on corrugations is the most frustrating and tiring experience. I needed to rest about every 20 minutes or so in order to relieve my sore hands after gripping too tightly and to regain some confidence and humor. Thus stopping at the TROPIC of CAPRICORN sign was a lovely excuse and certainly cheered me up.


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Hot, tired and thirsty we turned into Solitaire, a dusty but welcoming sight.


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Tucking in to some of Mooses  notorious apple crumble was not such a good idea! After  a couple of weeks of eating bland food  our tummies battled to accommodate this rich pastry and with feelings of nausea we set off for Sesriem, another 73 km away. We anticipated the worst but the road conditions improved, as did our spirits. Turning right  and riding for another 12 km on the C27  found us in SESRIEM – the entrance to SOSSUS VLEI.


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All the campsites were occupied, however, they kindly allowed us to set up camp in the ‘overflow’ area – no tap, no light, no grass, just a thorn tree surrounded with twigs, thorns (1 inch long) and buck or perhaps meerkat ****!  At this stage we didn’t care and were only happy to have a place to rest our wary bodies. All the campsites have a huge shady tree and there are 3 pools available, 2 being portable. The ablutions need attention in the cleanliness department but otherwise a pleasant place to stay and  meet some interesting people.


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Whilst pitching the tent another pole snapped. Being tired, dirty and irritable tempers flared but we made a temporary plan with both the pole and the friendship. As the day was replaced by sunset so we relaxed  and settled into the flow of things at the large thatch and canvas building that consisted of a shop, office, lounge/dining room and bar area and lots of happy people. It was here that we met up with ‘ FORTYFOUR’  from the Western Cape and swopped travelling stories over a few cold beers at the relaxing  pub. He was bravely doing a solo ride and seemed to be enjoying every minute of it. Looking forward to reading his RR.  Always refreshing to meet like-minded people.


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DAY 18
REST DAY AT SESRIEM & A VISIT TO DEADVLEI & SOSSUSVLEI
Distance:  120 km

Rudely awakened by the sound of our cellphone alarm at 4.30am. We needed to get ready for the 60km ride to Sossusvlei. It was still dark as we rode through the gate at 5.00am. I had been looking forward to this part of the trip for so long and had imagined the awesome photos I could take at sunrise. It was light when we arrived at the carpark and because the last 5km was for 4x4 only and no motorbikes allowed we decided to take a shuttle. It cost us N$110.00 each. What a rip off!!! We discovered later that it was negotiable and it seemed like there was a bit of a scam going on. So be warned.


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A short walk through some soft sand and small dunes took us to DEADVLEI- a flat white pan dotted with the skeletons of dessicated trees. It felt strange standing in this pan, surrounded by dunes and dead trees.


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We hung around until the sun came up but there was too much cloud cover so I didn’t have the contrasting effect of light and shadow that I was looking forward to seeing and photographing. The sand formations were rather fascinating and the high dunes made for tiring walking and interesting views.


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The SOSUSSVLEI about a kilometer away is an area where the Tsauchad River gives up trying to reach the coast as the huge dunes block its path and thus a dry, white pan forms. In the background of the picture below you will see this dry, white patch. On the rare occasion when it does rain this pan fills up with water and attracts the birdlife and buck.


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The white patch in the background is Sossusvlei.


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This is the 4x4 road - no motorbikes allowed - thank goodness!

Headed back to camp and stopped at Dune 45. This is a popular dune to walk up and view the sunrise.


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When we returned we noticed with horror that my bike frame was cracking on either side and we realized that this was not something we could easily repair on route. Clearly the endless corrugations and a heavy top box had finally taken its toll on the frame. Visiting Aus and Luderitz was now crossed off the list and heading back to Keetmanshoop was now a priority and the easiest and shortest route would be the best.


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Spent the rest of the day relaxing around a much needed cool pool. Later that afternoon we met up with four other riders from South Africa, one from the east coast ( our turf ) and the rest from Gauteng ( Schlenga being one of them). They had travelled up from Duwisib Castle which they recommended as a place to visit. We were a bit concerned about the road conditions as we knew my bikes frame was breaking up. They were continuing their trip up north to Zimbabwe and Botswana and still had a lot of travelling to do. This seemed a high spirited group of riders, we enjoyed their RR and were glad to hear they had a wonderful trip.

Decided to think about our plans tomorrow as this was now New Years Eve which we enjoyed with an amazing and inspiring elderly couple from the U.K – Margaret(66) and Pete(70) Hix. They had started their trip in Kenya on a tour by overlander and got as far as Zambia and decided to abandon bus as it was aweful, demanded a refund and continued their trip using public transport. Once in Windhoek they hired a vehicle, bought a tiny tent and sleeping bag (no mattress) to complete their tour through Namibia. They were having a ball! This was only a small part of their ‘travelling the world’ adventures.  Spent New Years eve chatting about each others experiences.


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THE LAST SUNSET OF 2009.

It was midnight when we returned back to our tent only to discover that a jackal had ripped his way into our tent and stolen every bit of food and eaten it outside the tent leaving a terrible mess. No breakfast for us!  We tidied up and blocked up the gaping hole as best we could. It wasn’t long before the jackal returned looking for more scraps and we watched with absolute fascination from inside the tent as it looked for a few more tasty morsels.
This was our start to 2010 - checking out a black-backed jackal a few feet away from our tent - magic stuff!



 
What a wonderful Ride Report.

As someone said previously, totally unpretentious and honest.

Thanks for making all the effort to share your amazing experiences with us.
 
Trying to fix photobucket problems
Any suggestions appreciated
 
Problems with photobucket seem to be going from bad to worse

When logging on,everything is as it was but for blanks instead of pictures.

These blanks have also replaced all the photos on this RR.

Technology works in mysterious ways.

Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
 
Hi Wildside

do not move pictures around in photobucket
if you are doing albums just  import them and keep them where you put them
better to sort out all your albums in photobucket before posting

that was my problem

lekker rr

it was a great sunset atsosssuvlei that night

jackals took some of our stuff too

 
DAY 19                  1  January  2010!!
Arrive:  DUWISIB CASTLE
Distance : +/-  170 km
Time out:  8.30 am – 1.00 pm

After a comfortable nights sleep we packed up and tried to reinforce my top box with extra rope and straps and hoped that it would last the trip. We decided that heading south on the C27 to Duwisib Castle would be a good idea – maybe not a wise one, but never the less we weren’t ready to end our holiday today. We said our goodbyes to our new friends, the Hix’s and set off. What a divine ride we had. We passed through the
NAMIB RAND PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE. The roads were in good condition and the scenery stunning. At one stage the road continued in a straight line for about 20 km, on
either side was a vast, open plain covered in yellow savannah and only  the odd tree was to be seen. Beyond these plains were the Nubibberge (mountains) on the left and the start of the dunes on the far right. Two completely different pictures on either side of the road.
 
We were treated to herds of zebra and springbuck occasionally darted across the road in front of us. It was quite a stunning sight to see oryx raising dust  with a show of power and speed and one can only wonder how they manage to keep so healthy and strong in these harsh conditions.


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Travelling at a slower pace in sympathy with the collapsing top box gave us an opportunity to really look around and absorb our surroundings. We started feeling a little concerned about the frame as it was hanging lower and lower and the back mudguard was getting too close to the tyre.
By the time we arrived at Betta, a little town providing the tourists with a small campsite, shop and petrol station, we were starving. Hurridly ate some junk food and continued on the D826 for the last 20 km to the castle. The going was slow as the mudguard  and top box were  now supported by scrapping on the back tyre.

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Arriving at DUWISIB CASTLE was a relief and a spectacular sight. This castle was built in 1909 by a German man for his American wife. He was unfortunately killed during the war and the wife returned to America. The castle was sold to the government and turned into a museum - now open for public viewing. A beautiful, strong building. Unfortunately by the time we had settled down and decided to check it out the castle was closed and we could not see inside.


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After arranging for something to eat for dinner at the shop behind the castle we set up camp. This was a newly built camp site and the ablutions were lovely and clean. Being so close to the end of the ride we decided to leave all our gear here and travel to Keetmanshoop as light as possible hopefully returning on the same day with our vehicle and bikes on the trailer. We made the necessary arrangements with Mr. Frank-Schultz, the owner of Farm Duwisib, who was extremely helpful and pleasant.


By late afternoon the cloud build up was ominous and soon the heavens opened. The tent leaked all around the edges but we remained cozy and dry in the middle. 26 mm of rain was recorded that afternoon and it was their first rain of the season. We seem to be the rainmakers of Namibia – with a bit of marketing there may be a future in this?!
Our last night camping in Namibia and our camp was framed by a beautiful rainbow. We had become fond of our little tent and were sad to think that although it had seen us through our adventure its camping days were over.

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DAY 20                      LAST DAY
Arrive:  KEETMANSHOOP – returning to Duwisib Castle – Travelling to Fish River Canyon.
Distance: 340 km on bikes. (+/- 700 km in vehicle)
Time out: 8.15 am – 1.00 pm  (arrive Fish River Canyon 11.30 pm)

Packing up was a wet and messy business and not done with as much enthusiasm as we usually had. We left our luggage at the shop and set off, a bit heavy-hearted but fortunate enough to be able to complete the trip on bikes, albeit with no luggage. Knowing that this was the last of our Namibian adventure ride, left me feeling empty and I tried to absorb as much as possible of my surroundings. The rest of the D826 was a good road with more rolling dips and rises and soon spirits were up and our excitement returned.

Being back on the C14 was like travelling on a tar road again, higher speeds and not much concentration required. This was the same route we traveled on, on our first day and way back then I made a comment about the roads having gravel build up, barrenness, lack of beauty and lots of concentration required, but after 3 weeks of riding experience this road was a treat and we were surrounded by wonderful scenery. Perhaps having no luggage made it more pleasurable.


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Kingsley came across a Mud Stinker Terrapin that was hot-footing it with long legs across the gravel road. We promptly stopped to pick him up and place him out of harms way and in doing so discovered the reason for his name. These little chaps have a musk gland and when threatened, secrete an unpleasant  odour. During the dry seasons they bury themselves in the mud and only emerge after it rains. There were several puddles about, hence his appearance.


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Here he is giving Kingsley the 'stink-eye.'


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We took advantage of the Helmeringhuisen hospitality and enjoyed a light meal before continuing. Blasting eastwards along on the tarred B4 towards Keetmanshoop gave me plenty of time to think back on the last 3 weeks and tried to grasp fully what an amazing African adventure we both had and how fortunate we were to be arriving back safely.


Without further adieu we loaded the bikes onto the trailer and enjoyed a well deserved shower and donned ourselves with fresh, clean clothes which we had left in our vehicle and set off again for Duwisib Castle. It was a long dull trip in a vehicle and we were both lost in our thoughts most of the way. Later that afternoon we collected our luggage and headed south for the Fish River Canyon. The excitement over. The adventure riding over, but the WONDERFUL MEMORIES WILL LAST A LIFETIME!!!


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Thanks for the encouraging responses. These make posting a RR a pleasure.
CHEERS till next time.

 
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