DAY 17
Arrive: SESRIEM
Distance: +/- 310 km
Time out: 7.15 am – 3.00 pm
Packed up early and set off eastwards on the C14 knowing that this would be less travelled and quieter road. It was extremely cold and I was most grateful for the cheap windbreaker I purchased in Walvis Bay. The sand on either side of the road was pale grey in colour, the heavy cloud cover hung low and the mist we travelled through gave our surroundings a ghostly appearance. There is a 50 km mist belt from the coast going inland. Within this area there is an ecosystem that relies solely on the mist for survival. In the summer months Namibia experiences a Westerly wind, bringing cool air from the ocean and in winter the Easterly wind brings in the warmer air from the interior.
The condition of this gravel road was good and soon after leaving the mist belt we came across a sign pointing to Vogelverderberg on the right hand side.( One has to be careful about the correct pronunciation of many of the names of places in Namibia as they can sometimes sound more than colourful. Kingsley found it particularly difficult to get his tongue around Duwisib and Ludzputz.) For some reason a permit was necessary to enter this area and we decided to stretch our legs and walk up to this outcrop of rock that looked interesting enough to warrant a visit. It must have provided shelter for the San (bushmen) at some stage in history as there was a cave-like area providing a bit of overhang. Would not recommend a visit to the little hut as this is a well used and abused ‘longdrop’ (primitive toilet with no flushing system).
The little hut is on the right hand side.
Shortly after leaving this place it started to warm up and the road started to deteriorate. Corrugations alternated with sandy patches and had to keep reminding myself that accelerating, instead of breaking, would keep me in the saddle and out of the sand. We travelled through two lovely passes, the first being the KUISIB PASS which is partly tarred and it takes you out of the NAMIB NAUKLUFT PARK. Didn’t see any wildlife though. The next pass was the GAUB PASS. Riding down into the bottom of the pass made for lovely views.
For those readers who are interested, “ THE SHELTERING DESERT” by Henno Martin is a thought provoking adventure of two German geologists disappearing into the Namib desert to avoid internment during World War 2. Martin is very good at describing the vastness and natural wonders of this particular area.
The terrain changed to rock and savannah grass and the combination of yellow and black was strangely beautiful.
Traveling such a long distance on corrugations is the most frustrating and tiring experience. I needed to rest about every 20 minutes or so in order to relieve my sore hands after gripping too tightly and to regain some confidence and humor. Thus stopping at the TROPIC of CAPRICORN sign was a lovely excuse and certainly cheered me up.
Hot, tired and thirsty we turned into Solitaire, a dusty but welcoming sight.
Tucking in to some of Mooses notorious apple crumble was not such a good idea! After a couple of weeks of eating bland food our tummies battled to accommodate this rich pastry and with feelings of nausea we set off for Sesriem, another 73 km away. We anticipated the worst but the road conditions improved, as did our spirits. Turning right and riding for another 12 km on the C27 found us in SESRIEM – the entrance to SOSSUS VLEI.
All the campsites were occupied, however, they kindly allowed us to set up camp in the ‘overflow’ area – no tap, no light, no grass, just a thorn tree surrounded with twigs, thorns (1 inch long) and buck or perhaps meerkat ****! At this stage we didn’t care and were only happy to have a place to rest our wary bodies. All the campsites have a huge shady tree and there are 3 pools available, 2 being portable. The ablutions need attention in the cleanliness department but otherwise a pleasant place to stay and meet some interesting people.
Whilst pitching the tent another pole snapped. Being tired, dirty and irritable tempers flared but we made a temporary plan with both the pole and the friendship. As the day was replaced by sunset so we relaxed and settled into the flow of things at the large thatch and canvas building that consisted of a shop, office, lounge/dining room and bar area and lots of happy people. It was here that we met up with ‘ FORTYFOUR’ from the Western Cape and swopped travelling stories over a few cold beers at the relaxing pub. He was bravely doing a solo ride and seemed to be enjoying every minute of it. Looking forward to reading his RR. Always refreshing to meet like-minded people.