Taking our bikes to Malawi

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Day 10

Day 10 was to be a quiet day of rest next to the Luangwa River, watching wildlife and giving our bikes a well-deserved rest. The rain on our last rest day in Malawi hindered our laundry plans and we now finally had the chance to drain some dust from our clothes.

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How domesticated am I?

We were unsure as to what route we would take the next day. Our plan initially was to keep following the river south until we met up with the main Chipata-Lusaka road, but our warning of thick Mozambique-type sand on this road made us uncomfortable to do this with our loaded bikes right next to the park. This Luangwa River is the border of the South Luangwa park meaning that anything in the park could very easily also be on our side of the river and I had promised my mother that I’d minimize my risk of being trampled by elephants this year… So we decided to take the larger roads down and not have any fun.

After a good breakfast at the pub, we took our bikes back to the town to quickly stock up on beer. Dawie mentioned that while we are on the bikes on a rest day, we might as well just recce the original route next to the river without our luggage and just check it out.

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Local market, next to the park

40kms into our recce, we were having a great time playing in the narrow roads in the bush! The day was nearing an end and we had to turn around, but we were without doubt returning the next day to finish this road! This track was a lot of fun!

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Some dry river crossings and rocky sections provided great fun

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The track had many sandy sections, but not enough to keep us away!

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Finding a deserted old campsite

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There is no shortage of elephants here

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Close call from not focussing on the road ahead!

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Dawie gunning it on the loose top

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Nearly getting used to seeing elephants

Upon our return to camp, we were informed that a parade of elephants had made their way through our camp, but luckily didn’t try to break into anything for food. A month ago the main bull had flipped a GP Fortuner for a can of fruit.

We had a burger each at the pub and started a fire at the camp. There will always just be something about sitting next to a river or dam with a fire under the clear sky’s stars chatting with a good friend.

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Watching t.v. in the bush

Suddenly, we heard a commotion in the dark, behind the bikes. The parade of elephants was on its way back to the park. Nonchalantly, they walked past our tents, sniffing at our bags. One stopped on tried to open my top box with its foot. I don’t believe that there are many top boxes on the road now with scratch marks from an elephant’s foot!

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“Ah, an elephant. Let’s piss it off with a bright flash of light!”
Luckily he couldn’t get the box (bottom right) open and I still had food for the rest of my trip

We went to bed late into the night, after realizing that we had spent most of our last rest day riding our bikes! It may be possible that we suffer from an addiction!


Costs for the day:
Camping: R140
Beer: R220 (R14 each)
Fuel: R376 (21l)
Dinner: R140
Distance travelled so far: 3314m
 
Ek lees leker - dankie dat jy julle trip met ons deel.

Ook maar goed julle het weggebly uit die koperbelt opgewing, want die deel van Zambië wat ek ken, lyk beslis nie so mooi nie!!!  :deal:
 
:thumright: :thumright:

Dankie vir die deel mnr... lekker om dit so te volg!!!! 
 
Geniet hierdie baie. Wat is die backpackers se naam waar julle gebly het op lake malawi? Dit lyk na 'n plek waar ek volgende keer sal wil stop  :thumleft:
 
Thanks everyone! I'm missing the place allready!

Gasman said:
Geniet hierdie baie. Wat is die backpackers se naam waar julle gebly het op lake malawi? Dit lyk na 'n plek waar ek volgende keer sal wil stop  :thumleft:

Dit was die backbackers by Nkata Bay - Mayoka Village.
 
Day 11

I slept late and when I finally woke, Dawie’s things were nearly packed. I still had to fold all my laundry from yesterday while Dawie was chatting to some tourists who were started asking him lots of questions about the bikes, the trip and living in South Africa. We were very excited to ride yesterday’s track again, but the animals are very active next to the river in the early mornings, so we could only start riding at 09:30.

The route we recced yesterday is very narrow and twisty and we could only manage about 30km/h. It was tough, tiring riding, but we loved every minute! After about 4 hours, we had done 100kms and the track diverted from the river and started to link up with larger roads.

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Playing in the bush

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The narrow, loose track kept us happy for over 100kms!

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The first thing I thought when I saw this: “Terrorists!” Luckily not the case!

The Zambians are a friendly people. So friendly that at one instance Dawie asked me if I think something might be wrong with them! Sadly, I think it may be us that something is wrong with. Back home we find it odd when people greet strangers and smile at people they don’t know. Perhaps that’s the way it should actually be done?

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In the first town we filled up with petrol. It was a Sunday and the shops were closed, but when Dawie asked someone where he can buy cigarettes, they ran off, fetched someone to open the shop for us and helped us out immediately! People keep coming over to ask about our bikes and our trips and then greet us and leave. No one begs or hangs around for too long.

The tar road to the Luangwa Bridge started in a bad condition and we dodged potholes for the first 100 km or so, immediately missing the quiet, slow gravel track we had to leave behind. Coming over the mountains kept us busy with a lot of twisties. We only had one Sunday afternoon roadblock, but they just let us pass without checking anything.

All along the road we saw veld fires, but no-one fighting them. I keep wondering how the fires ever are stopped. We had a couple more kilos of twisties and then arrived at the large and very impressive Luangwa Bridge. Here we turned from the tar and took a short gravel road down to our camp. Mozambique was now just across the river and we were less than 200 kms from where we saw Cahora Bassa for the first time 10 days ago.

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Luangwa Bridge with Mozambique starting on the right

The camp was a standard bar with uncovered campsite, but it was crazy expensive. This guy must either have the only camp in the area, or his competition has no idea how to advertise and market. We paid R40 per bottle of beer, R150 for a burger (plus an extra R50 for chips). Our budget did not allow us to have a late night, so we chatted with some tourists heading up to the park from Lusaka back at our camp. A Belgian man stared at the bikes with jealousy in his eye – he himself rides a 1200GS, but only on tar he says. Some Zim farmers told us the stories of how they had lost most of their land, which made me very sad and very angry at the same time. They also gave us the name of a place we could stay on our way back through Zim, so we didn’t have to repeat the Mount Darwin incident!

At about ten, we called it a night and went to bed. As I lay flat on my back, thankful for the great day’s ride I was completely unaware of the gem we would discover the next day…

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Costs for the day:
Camping: R150
Beer: R240 (R40 each)
Fuel: R188 (10l)
Dinner: R230
Distance travelled so far: 3668m
 
Day 12

I was awake to hear the Zimbabwean farmers rise with the sun. The well-practiced routine of folding and packing could now be done under 15 minutes and we left the camp at about 08:00. We had another long day’s riding ahead of us, but had no idea how tired, relieved, excited and content we’d be at the end of the day…

The first 170 kms were done on the main road to Lusaka. It was in a very good condition and the twisties and brilliant views from yesterday continued. It was Farmer’s day in Zambia – a public holiday and the roads were very quiet. We stopped for fuel at the last town, Chalimbana and I treated myself to some cookies with some of my last kwacha. The people continued to amaze me with their kindness, except for one small boy whose persistence in begging very nearly outlasted my patience.

From here we needed to go south over a couple of mountains to the T2 Harare-Lusaka highway. We could find only a gravel road named “not recommended” by the GPS. Can a road have any better recommendation than that?! Obviously we had no choice but to take it. However as we turned from the main road, large signs boasted that the road is to be tarred!

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Road closed to be tarred

Luckily we could pass through the loose, grated side of the road. The tarring was planned only for a short section to a village nearby. We soon found ourselves leaving the village and all people behind. The road got narrower and suddenly there were very few people around as the southern mountains crept closer. With every kilometre our grins grew wider without us even knowing that those wide grind would soon be even broader smiles.

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Our traditional smoke-break. Every hour, on the hour. This provided the perfect opportunity for us to discuss whatever we had just seen

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Our yellow brick road.

Gradually our pace became slower as ditches and rocks crept onto what once was a flat straight road. The open fields turned into bush and our altitude rose. As I saw a man pushing his bicycle up an incline ahead of me, I did not realize that it was because there was no flat surface for him to ride on and before we knew it we were dodging ditches, jumping over rocks and wrestling our Blocks of flats over a mountain. At places we were riding on a raised single track with deep ditches at its sides smiling at you as trees and bushes from the other side tries to nudge you ever closer. I may, or may not, have steered my bike through a tree while avoiding ditches and sharp rocks. Some sections were very rocky and reminded me of some sort of de Wildt / Bezuidenhoud’s pass blend.

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Choose your line wisely…

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Dawie gunning it

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An incredible view

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This provided for a very entertaining and thorough workout

As you might have noticed, this pass over the mountains was a highlight of the trip. We stopped at the foot of the last mountain, exhausted and wet, but ready to turn around and do it again if only we had the time! It is amazing how much confidence 12 days on the bike can give a person! The pass had taken a lot of time and we now had to push to reach the border before dark. After a quick lunch of our usual assorted nuts and dry wors we were ready to take the new, wider road further south.

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Some commercial farming. Zambia welcomed many Zimbabwean farmers after their farms were taken from them

The wide, large road was terrible. The corrugation and pot holes were shaking out bikes, luggage and bodies to pieces. The road suddenly stopped at a river and we paid a pontoon 50 kwacha (R100) each to take us to the other side

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It was getting late and we still had a border crossing to do for the day. A couple of kilos from the river we climbed onto some tar again and headed for Kariba. As if we hadn’t had enough fun already, the last 10 kms over the mountain was another brilliant mountain pass! What a great day of riding. Life can’t get any better.

It was sad to leave Zambia and its friendly people, but we entered their border post feeling on top of the world after our day’s riding. There were no queues and the immigration lady made some chitchat as she stamped our passports. We headed for customs to have our gate passes stamped and pay the carbon tax and road access fees we couldn’t pay when we entered. As we explained the situation to the customs official, she just turned around and left her cubicle. A couple of minutes later she opened the door and told us to follow her. As we stood in front of her boss’s office we knew that we were now in some sort of grown up trouble. No-one has ever been invited to a border official’s office for milk and cookies. A man called us inside and asked to hear our story again. “We entered at the quiet post, Lundazi on Thursday where the customs official was at a workshop in Lusaka and we were told to pay our fees upon exit.” “Really?” He asked. “There was no workshop that day.” The friendly ladies at Lundazi had screwed us over!

We begged and explained and argued, but this man would not divert from the procedures. The fine for no CIP (customs import permit) was 540 Kwacha per bike per day. That’s equal to about R11 500. Obviously we did not have close to that on us (or available in our bank accounts back home) and his only solution was for the bikes to be impounded until we could pay the fine. We begged and argued and asked how we can fix this, but he stood firm. As the night came closer (and in retrospect, probably his time to go home), he finally agreed to fine us for one bike for one day. He asked us how we had enjoyed our stay and Dawie said that as much as he had loved his stay, he would never bring his children back. Suddenly the official was very apologetic. He scraped the fine and we only had to pay the 50 kwacha carbon tax. He wished us a pleasant journey and we could leave Zambia as the sun gave its last rays for the day.
 
Zimbabwe
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We entered into Zimbabwe over the Kariba dam wall into a small and quiet border post. The officials were notably less friendly than those we had just left behind, but the process was quick and luckily our R300 3rd party insurance was still valid. Soon afterwards we were in town searching for the fuel station where we had found some fuel last year. As we entered the camp site, we noticed that they had moved to the site right next to where they were last year. I made a routine U-turn on the wide and solid gravel, but perhaps the physical work from the long ride and stress from the border had taken its toll and I dropped my bike at walking pace on a flat piece of gravel! I had just that day traversed mountains, but I couldn’t execute a standard U-turn! Minutes later, Dawie fell over on another clear and flat piece of land! Clearly we were getting tired and frustrated. We couldn’t have reached the camp site any sooner.

Dawie had booked a site for us and luckily so, because the place was a lot smaller than last year and it looked full. As the manager paged through his book he told us that there was no mention of our booking and that there unfortunately was no camping space available for us. Luckily the owner could see the steam coming from our ears and offered us the last available hut at camping rates.

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We were exhausted by now and very grateful to not have to pitch our tents

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A nice, soft mattress and mosquito net, right next to Lake Kariba

We had our couple of beers, a good dinner and went to bed early. What an awesome day. This is what adventure riding is supposed to be about.


Costs for the day:
Camping: R50
Beer: R130 (R17 each)
Fuel: R481 (30l)
Dinner: R100
Border: R188
Distance travelled so far: 4091m
 
Day 13

A long, mostly boring day, with a surprise ending! We headed north, away from Kariba onto the stunning 70km road to the A1 highway. This road also offered turn upon turn and with my tyres properly inflated and ESA on sport, I could feel my bike wanting to lean more and more into every turn. I obliged and had a great time, nice and early in the morning!

The A1 is the main road from Mozambique, through Harare to Lusaka and carries a lot of trucks. We were stopped twice at roadblocks and our passports, licenses and TIPs were checked. Imagine this had happened in Zambia! At the town of Chinoyi, we took the road to Bulawayo. It was clear that there once were many buildings, businesses and farming, but most of it was destroyed now.

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All animals are equal…

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Dawie enjoying the ride

The main road from Harare to Bulawayo was being rebuilt by Group 5 and had a lot of stop / go’s. At the town of Gweru we turned off towards the camp recommended by Frank back in Zambia. As we entered the horse and lion cub sanctuary we realised that the owner of this place was a man with a brilliant business plan… You can pay to volunteer to come to this ranch and help clean and take care of the horses and lion cubs. Who would pay to come do that? Girls. 50 of them. True. Freaking. Story. As we passed through the gate, we realised that we were no longer on earth. On our left two groups were playing volleyball and next to our camp site a smaller group was relaxing in the pool. Some were riding horses and others were just sitting on the grass. They were all very friendly and quite happy to see some men at the camp. We shared some civilized conversation until they had to return to some lecture.

Next year we will spend all 18 days of our trip here.

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Awesome quote at the camp’s reception

We bought a couple of beers and some fire wood from the bar and Dawie and I sat next to our t.v., watching the flames, chatting into the early hours of the morning.


Costs for the day:
Camping: R100
Beer: R150 (R25 each)
Fuel: R420 (27l)
Dinner: R75
Distance travelled so far: 4609m
 
Day 14

Today we would leave Zimbabwe and enter Botswana on our way back home. The road to Bulawayo was busy with large parts being rebuilt and we were delayed by a few stops. The town of Bulawayo surprised me with its old buildings and wide streets. There seemed to be less deterioration here than in the other Zim town we’ve seen. There were many speed traps along the road, but were luckily we were keeping below the limit, so had no problems. We arrived at the Plumtree Border right on time for lunch and had to wait about an hour or so, before we could go through. Entering cost us R170 in carbon tax and road access fees.
 
Botswana
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The roads here were well maintained and very wide. We rode along comfortably at 120. Every couple of kms the speed limit dropped to 80 for a bus stop, but never rose to 120 again. This caused a lot of confusion and frustration for us as we didn’t know when we should do what speed and riding along on these roads at 80 would drain our souls in the first hour. Eventually, we sped up after leaving a small town. As I was cruising along, a white Honda Civic pulled up next to me and the lady inside directed me to pull over. As I saw the radars in its windscreen I knew why. They told me to follow them as we go to catch Dawie who did not see me get pulled over and was already on the horizon. Top speed for the trip: 180km/h, following an unmarked police car on a Botswana road.

The traffic officers didn’t seem very compassionate as Dawie and I stood next to the road asking for forgiveness. We were not willing to hand over our pula that we brought from home to them. We insisted that we had only taken enough along to get us through the border and were planning to draw some more once we arrived in Francistown. Eventually the “How much do you have?” question came up and we knew that things were not going to be done by the book. Insisting that we had nothing on us, but they could follow us to Francistown where we would draw cash and pay our fine, they finally gave up and let us go. Clearly the good cop – bad cop routine Dawie and I had developed was working!

Francistown is a well-developed African town with a strong South African influence. Debonairs, Spar, Tops, Nandos, Chicken Licken and even 95 octane were all available. We had planned to head home from here, but had a couple of extra days in case we needed to spend more time somewhere along the trip. Seeing as we did not need that time and had it now, we decided to not head straight home…

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Shops in Francistown

We refuelled in Francistown and stocked up on food, beer and water for the next two days, because there would be no water or food where we were heading the next day.

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Camping at Francistown

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Restocked for the last leg of our trip


Costs for the day:
Camping: R100
Beer: R140 (R17 each)
Fuel: R215 (19l)
Dinner: R115
Border: R175
Distance travelled so far: 4974m
 
Day 15

Another awesome day’s riding! We packed our bags and headed for the Makgadikgadi pans! We tried to avoid going through Francistown and tested some back gravel roads. All of them ended as a cul-de-sac on private land and we ended up having to us Francistown.

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Most gates were unlocked, but we didn’t want to overstay our welcome in Botswana

The plan was to do the pans north to south, so we had to tackle 200kms on the crazy-boring flat and straight A3 to Nata. This country is flat. When God made hills and mountains, he must have gotten to Botswana on a Sunday.

Once we had passed Nata and left the tar, the fun started. The road to the pans quickly became a tweespoor, constantly splitting into more and more options. Every now and then we’d be surprised by some sand, ditches or rocks.

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The big challenge was the ditches filled with some type of “liquid dust”, a very fine sand that flows like water. It covers the ditch, but gives way completely once the bike rides over it. If you keep your speed, you’ll just ride over the ditches, but not seeing them makes for a good surprise. Giant clouds of dust were hanging behind be and I felt quite sorry for Dawie who had to pass through them!

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A couple of metres from our rest stop, net yet on the right speeds and this is what you can expect to happen

We had a 100kms of tweespoor to ride before dark and with the sand, bushes and dust it was taking us a while. The bushes and thorns tried to pull us from our bikes. We were having so much fun none of it really bothered us at all. Suddenly as some of my dust settled, I found that I could not see Dawie behind me. I was worried of us getting separated in this labyrinth, but turned around to go and look for him. The dust and ditches had claimed a big fall!

I was very relieved to find Dawie already standing when I got to him. He complained of pain on his chest and we could see how his screen’s mounting had bent as he had hit the screen on his flight over the handle bars. It looked like he might have cracked some ribs and I was worried about the rest of his day’s ride and especially the deeper sand on our way out the next morning. But Dawie manned up, got on his bike and rode on as if nothing had happened.

We arrived at Kubu Island just before sunset. I was astounded by the sheer flatness of the pan and the amount of nothingness was hard to comprehend. It was flat and bare as far as you can see. But it was beautiful!

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A whole lot of nothing

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Kubu Island is a hill of rocks in the middle of the pan with a couple of Baobabs. There is nothing else. No water, no food, definitely no fuel. One man stays there to collect camp fees and sell fire wood.

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Kubu Island

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Not my pic, but a very good one of the beautiful Kubu island!

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Enjoying our warm, shaken beers

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I had brought along some tuna, cheese and mayo and made us a tuna salad for dinner. Sitting under the clear sky, watching millions of stars, eating my dinner next to my tent and camp fire I was as happy as I can ever expect to be!

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Costs for the day:
Camping: R180
Food: R80
Distance travelled so far: 5323m
 
Day 16


We got up early to watch the sun rising over the pan. As we were drinking our coffee and watching the sun rise, we sat in disbelief over the trip we had had so far.

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Weird to think that everyone back home were rushing about in their daily lives, while we could experience something to peaceful

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My favourite camping pic yet

After packing up, we travelled over the pan, into the nothingness, until the nothingness became a tweespoor again and the tweespoor became thick sand.

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Pans became golden grass fields

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Gras fields became sand

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Some more sand

Just as we had gotten the hang of the sand, the bushes opened up and we entered the village. I stopped when I left the gravel onto the tar and I knew my trip was over. From here we went straight back home, passing a lot of GP 4x4’s heading up for the long weekend, all looking very grumpy and few waving back. We camped at the Martin’s drift border and were back home the next afternoon.

Total kms: 6150 – 83 hours in the saddle.

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The end
 
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