The Unforgiven Trail - and the legends that tamed it

[Grunder]

BMW boots..... where is @2StrokeDan when you need him eh?
Especially so when these nigh-on new boots were only seven years old (my Altzheimers allowing here...), so hardly walked-in yet!

Anyway, Fanus is a doctor, so should be handy-enough with some basic tools in the field.... a drill & bit, some cablieties plus some glue of unspecified origin - should do the job right?

Hardy will have to start taking Shoe-goo with in the glove box compartment.

 

[BuRP]

the level of logistical support given is a great feat in its own

You took the words right out of my keyboard Hennie, beyond belief in fact!

This longest-distance day I opted to ride shotgun with Hardy in the cruiser, in civvies and with my bike in the back. If you need to know, I only did this to save on 2stroke oil and of course petrol money, plus I hardly am the type to say no to a lazy day in a cruiser's seat in good company.
Anyway, close to the for-me-famous Jaffel lunch spot 2 years ago the trailer came to a grinding halt - literally so, one of the leaf springpacks had broken.
Allan & Greg had removed it already when Hardy & me arrived, and to my utter surprise I see a brandnew spare springpack lying next to the wheel ..... now where did that come from???
Turns out this is par for the course, spares travel with us!
These however were 8-leaf sets whilst the trailer was riding on 12-leaf's, but with some wooden chocks this would get us to Palmwag Camp - and it did!
Here Greg disassembled it again, and modded the 8 to a 12 leaf plus did some improvements so that this setup would last .... he's quite a handy git I discovered, well done

 

[BuRP]

Hardy will have to start taking Shoe-goo with in the glove box compartment.

You better do one of these trips yourself Meneer, then you'll find out how BIG Hardy's 'glovebox' is!

My luggage consisted of my duffelbag, but also a box with engine oil, various filters & spares all wrapped in a proper bag to keep this dust-free, plus a bag with some bottles of 2stroke oil. Most of this rides in the carnivorous Unimog.
Some others had brought crates with similar goodies, and team Hardy had packed several other's miscellaneous spares in a big crate which was riding on the cruiser's loadbody, so accessible for anyone en route - and I found out that someone had put 2stroke oil in it ..... which I forgot to do - but needed it, of course somewhere remote in a riverbed where only the cruiser follows.
No idea who I have to thank for this but I do herewith - MOERSE dankie! - but calling this level of service a 'glovebox' is a serious underestimation of the levels of preparation this tour manages every time!

I'll admit that this bit is one of the reasons I like these tours.
You yourself need to carry absolutely nothing - no tubes, tools or spares, let alone food, camping stuff or whatever you think you may need.... nothing!
All of this is taken care of by the backup so you ride 'free', unencumbered by dead weight strapped to you or your bike, leaving you to ride rather than wrestle, and therefore your enjoyment will be so much better

 

[Grunder]

You better do one of these trips yourself Meneer, then you'll find out how BIG Hardy's 'glovebox' is!

My luggage consisted of my duffelbag, but also a box with engine oil, various filters & spares all wrapped in a proper bag to keep this dust-free, plus a bag with some bottles of 2stroke oil. Most of this rides in the carnivorous Unimog.
Some others had brought crates with similar goodies, and team Hardy had packed several other's miscellaneous spares in a big crate which was riding on the cruiser's loadbody, so accessible for anyone en route - and I found out that someone had put 2stroke oil in it ..... which I forgot to do - but needed it, of course somewhere remote in a riverbed where only the cruiser follows.
No idea who I have to thank for this but I do herewith - MOERSE dankie! - but calling this level of service a 'glovebox' is a serious underestimation of the levels of preparation this tour manages every time!

I'll admit that this bit is one of the reasons I like these tours.
You yourself need to carry absolutely nothing - no tubes, tools or spares, let alone food, camping stuff or whatever you think you may need.... nothing!
All of this is taken care of by the backup so you ride 'free', unencumbered by dead weight strapped to you or your bike, leaving you to ride rather than wrestle, and therefore your enjoyment will be so much better

I believe you when you say that!! My comment was more tongue in cheek, but I don't underestimate to what lengths the team goes for the riders.

For me going on one of these trips... unfortunately my skill will be found wanting.

 

[Oubones]

I believe you when you say that!! My comment was more tongue in cheek, but I don't underestimate to what lengths the team goes for the riders.

For me going on one of these trips... unfortunately my skill will be found wanting.

Do not worry about your skill, even that gets sorted on the way! I started my trip very apprehensive as I had always done solo trips so had no idea how I would shape up to the group. All got sorted and I had a blast.
Just do it

 

[LoopSoosStroop]

This looks like a truly amazing experience... eendag as ek groot is!

 

[Puls0nic]

As ek 'n ekstra geldjie inkry moet ek so iets boek vir myself.

 

[DirtyTeNeReLess]

looks just amazing, the freedom what comes with all this must be a dream, just ride ride ride. well done all, #jealous

 

[P.K.]

I believe you when you say that!! My comment was more tongue in cheek, but I don't underestimate to what lengths the team goes for the riders.

For me going on one of these trips... unfortunately my skill will be found wanting.

Roan don`t let that hold you back.
My suggestion is that you chat to Hardy. He will quickly establish whether you wil be ok.
Besides that , my first trip I was virtually a sand riding "virgin"....between time in the saddle and some coaching from the crew, I guarantee your skill level will improve exponentially.
Kaokoland on a light bike unencumbered with extra fuel and luggage is a "must do' in my opinion.

 

[Hardy de Kock]

You better do one of these trips yourself Meneer, then you'll find out how BIG Hardy's 'glovebox' is!

My luggage consisted of my duffelbag, but also a box with engine oil, various filters & spares all wrapped in a proper bag to keep this dust-free, plus a bag with some bottles of 2stroke oil. Most of this rides in the carnivorous Unimog.
Some others had brought crates with similar goodies, and team Hardy had packed several other's miscellaneous spares in a big crate which was riding on the cruiser's loadbody, so accessible for anyone en route - and I found out that someone had put 2stroke oil in it ..... which I forgot to do - but needed it, of course somewhere remote in a riverbed where only the cruiser follows.
No idea who I have to thank for this but I do herewith - MOERSE dankie! - but calling this level of service a 'glovebox' is a serious underestimation of the levels of preparation this tour manages every time!

I'll admit that this bit is one of the reasons I like these tours.
You yourself need to carry absolutely nothing - no tubes, tools or spares, let alone food, camping stuff or whatever you think you may need.... nothing!
All of this is taken care of by the backup so you ride 'free', unencumbered by dead weight strapped to you or your bike, leaving you to ride rather than wrestle, and therefore your enjoyment will be so much better

I have fond memories of my day with Bart in the bakkie. Those of you who know Bart will testify to his interesting way of looking at things, and his direct and blatant way of making you know how he feels about it.
Bart is a very deep thinker with a genuine love for the people he spends his time with. He is as tough as they come and he will not hesitate to help (and stay with) someone in need on the trail.
He has not asked for any special treatment once over the course of three tours and always makes a point of thanking the catering crew after the meals.
Bart - thank you for your kind words. The team loves Oom Bart and we definitely can't imagine a tour without you sitting with us around the campfire for our pre-sunrise coffee ritual.

 

[Chantal Burger]

You better do one of these trips yourself Meneer, then you'll find out how BIG Hardy's 'glovebox' is!

My luggage consisted of my duffelbag, but also a box with engine oil, various filters & spares all wrapped in a proper bag to keep this dust-free, plus a bag with some bottles of 2stroke oil. Most of this rides in the carnivorous Unimog.
Some others had brought crates with similar goodies, and team Hardy had packed several other's miscellaneous spares in a big crate which was riding on the cruiser's loadbody, so accessible for anyone en route - and I found out that someone had put 2stroke oil in it ..... which I forgot to do - but needed it, of course somewhere remote in a riverbed where only the cruiser follows.
No idea who I have to thank for this but I do herewith - MOERSE dankie! - but calling this level of service a 'glovebox' is a serious underestimation of the levels of preparation this tour manages every time!

I'll admit that this bit is one of the reasons I like these tours.
You yourself need to carry absolutely nothing - no tubes, tools or spares, let alone food, camping stuff or whatever you think you may need.... nothing!
All of this is taken care of by the backup so you ride 'free', unencumbered by dead weight strapped to you or your bike, leaving you to ride rather than wrestle, and therefore your enjoyment will be so much better

Bart, Hardy het dit oorgepak 5h00 die oggend by Purros terwyl julle nog geslaap het.
Hy moes spasie maak vir Jean se fiets & moontlik nog ‘n fiets op die trail.
Hy het dus al die belangrike goed uit die verskillende bokse in een boks gepak, en dit op die dak vasgestrap.

 

[Hardy de Kock]

I believe you when you say that!! My comment was more tongue in cheek, but I don't underestimate to what lengths the team goes for the riders.

For me going on one of these trips... unfortunately my skill will be found wanting.

Roan - Ek het al genoeg met jou gedeel om te weet dat jy dinge maak gebeur op jou manier.
Nee wat - ek twyfel nie vir 'n oomblik dat jy Noord Namibia sal baaasraak nie.
Jy kan regtig maar raad vat van ouens soos @Oubones - Hy het dieselfde pad as jy gestap en heel goed anderkant uitgekom.

 

[Adriaan.theron]

@hartebees kom nou, ek wag in spanning vir Dag 3: Palmwag tot Khowarib Schlucht

Verlang ek nou na daardie lekker rivier beddings...

 

[hartebees]

Day 3 – Palmwag to Khowarib Camp

In previous years the ride through the Khowarib Schlucht was my favourite day the tour. This year we would be doing it from south to north, which means we would be doing the rocky section before we hit the Ombonde river.

As we left camp on the main road, Justin was parked 50m from the turn off, getting off his bike. I though that he wanted to take a photo of the rocky Palmwag landscape but as I stopped next to him he told me that he had a puncture on his rear wheel. Turns out he completely slashed his sidewall 50m into the days ride.

We had a spare rear D606 on the roof rack of the Cruiser so we replaced his tyre and tube and got going. We were probably about 30min behind the other riders by this point.

Fortunately we met up with the other riders not far from where the technical riding started. A long loose, rocky climb near Klein Van Zyls served as a nice welcoming card to the Kaokoland – I reckon this is where quite a few of the riders realised what they were really in for. With some sweat and swearing all the bikes got to the top and we continued through the Klein Serengeti plain. This year the grass was not as lush as usual and it was actually possible to see the track twisting and turning ahead.

The entire group, apart from Fred and Martin who had continued, regroup as we got to the riverbed. One by one they went off in a cloud of dust, attacking the thick riverbed sand.

Riding this riverbed is a very unique motorcycling experience. While you are constantly fighting the thick sand, drop-offs, massive Ana trees and other obstacles, the riverbed twists and turns sharply in front of you. The elephant dung is scattered all around and one could be standing right around the next corner as you are charging into it. And if you have time to look up you see the high walls of the riverbed, and over that the mountain range that envelopes the whole valley. A perfect mixture of fun and fear.

Andrew and Steve on the big bikes were at the back along with Bart and myself. We stopped regularly and I was starting to feel a bit concerned as they seemed very tired and weren’t attacking the sand as they should. At some point however they flipped a switch and changed their approach. After that they seemed to surf on top of the sand.

To be continued later today…

 

[Hardy de Kock]

I must admit that I was a little worried about some of the riders. I have not had enough opportunity to see the de Villiers brothers riding and neither did I see the guys on the bigger bikes because of the issues we had with the trailer on day two.
It was my intention to see as much as possible of the new guys on day two, so that I was in a position to suggest the bail out route (or not) to the riders who might struggle with the Khowarib Schlught on day three.
The Schlught will test every aspect of your sand riding skills and it will become your worst nightmare if you are not truly comfortable on the never ending sand of the Ombonde and Hoanib riverbeds.

Luckily, my fears were unfounded and the riders mentioned above all turned out to be as resilient as pissed of honeybadgers because there in front of my eyes these newcomers and big bike riders ripped up the sand, one dustcloud after the other.

a Special mention goes out to Jean and Pierre de Villiers, and to Steve Stuart and Andrew Catchpole who told me prior to the tour that they have never really ridden sand this thick.
The two brothers grit their teeth and despite on or two nasty falls in the infamous fesh fesh traps they rode those riverbeds like kings.
Andrew and Steve was in front of us all the time and @hartebees and I were witnessing that special moment when everything clicks into place happening right in front of us.
Man it was beautiful to see..
@Catchy - I would not have wanted to be anywhere else in the world at that moment - thanks

 

[hartebees]

 

[Hardy de Kock]

@hartebees kom nou, ek wag in spanning vir Dag 3: Palmwag tot Khowarib Schlucht

Verlang ek nou na daardie lekker rivier beddings...

Ek het baie aande gesit en dink hoe lekker dit sou wees as jy ook daar was ou maat. Maak September los, lyk my ons gaan weer

 

[Adriaan.theron]

Ek het baie aande gesit en dink hoe lekker dit sou wees as jy ook daar was ou maat.

Ek het myself 'n paar keer gevang dat ek in my kantoor sit en dink vandag moet julle die of daardie stuk ry. Dan is dit moeilik om jou kop weer terug by die werk te kry.

Maak September los, lyk my ons gaan weer

 

[JeanDV]

I must admit that I was a little worried about some of the riders. I have not had enough opportunity to see the de Villiers brothers riding and neither did I see the guys on the bigger bikes because of the issues we had with the trailer on day two.
It was my intention to see as much as possible of the new guys on day two, so that I was in a position to suggest the bail out route (or not) to the riders who might struggle with the Khowarib Schlught on day three.
The Schlught will test every aspect of your sand riding skills and it will become your worst nightmare if you are not truly comfortable on the never ending sand of the Ombonde and Hoanib riverbeds.

Luckily, my fears were unfounded and the riders mentioned above all turned out to be as resilient as pissed of honeybadgers because there in front of my eyes these newcomers and big bike riders ripped up the sand, one dustcloud after the other.

a Special mention goes out to Jean and Pierre de Villiers, and to Steve Stuart and Andrew Catchpole who told me prior to the tour that they have never really ridden sand this thick.
The two brothers grit their teeth and despite on or two nasty falls in the infamous fesh fesh traps they rode those riverbeds like kings.
Andrew and Steve was in front of us all the time and @hartebees and I were witnessing that special moment when everything clicks into place happening right in front of us.
Man it was beautiful to see..
@Catchy - I would not have wanted to be anywhere else in the world at that moment - thanks

Soos genoem was dag 3 die eerste werklike dag waar jou vernuf getoets sou word, en waarvan ek nie veel gehad het nie.

Gelukkig na n paar draaie op die grond het die sand meer gemaklik begin raak en niks leer jou vinniger as om iets self vinnig oor en oor te doen nie, was ‘n amazing dag waar ek en @Blackspar ook 2 olifante, gelukkig op ‘n afstand, gesien met @BuRP wat ons uit die riverbed gelei het!

 

[BuRP]

... where the technical riding started. A long loose, rocky climb near Klein Van Zyls ...

Last year Gerry & me rode this bit, in reverse direction yeah, at the end of a long day.
I was knacked then, the sun was baking us, and I remember a smokebreak where we comically tried to huddle under a petty little tree (read: a bush) in an attempt to get some shade. We had to clean our radiators there as they were grass-filled.
I did not really enjoy this rocky section then, especially so after riding the easy Klein Serengeti which was flat, full of high grass, and we were on a straight track which seemed to lead to the road we had to join anyway.... but the track veered us onto this rocky *****.

But now this bit was at the start, and it was cool enough.... it looked completely different to me, a non-event actually!
A lot easier quite frankly, and no doubt my stroker made it even easier, so this bit was a pleasure all in all, contrary to the relative pain from last year - an excellent start indeed!
At the top the guys were looking down in glee to those struggling up - so I joined them of course
Was good so see how Andrew & Steve manhandled their bikes up that loose incline, without much ado actually

The following Klein Seregeti plain was void of any grass, flat and barren... so this also was expedited in a hurry compared to last year.

Then next was the riverbed, glorious sand galore... but we regrouped here first for a bite and chat!
Fine with me, although I was quite eager to see how my 2stroke was going to perform here - I mean come on now, this is where it is going to make a few guys jealous! Light and screaming its way over the sand, not plowing through it, and breaking traction perfectly on command, steering the rear rather than wrestling the submarine at the front .... plus the sound!!!!
I could not wait for the guys to buzz off, no doubt I'd see and overtake some of them, after all this stretch was some 30 km odd and I was expecting to fly through it....!!!!

Leaving stonelast I did too yeah, but in a kind of coitus interruptus way.
I full well know my good friends Andrew & Steve can ride waayyy better than me, I'll not even think of dicing them anywhere.... but today was different!
They were on big bikes, T7 & 890 R respectively, so completely unfair yes - but I find them after what, a kilometer or two, parked there where the sand swallowed them??? Out of breath, sweating badly, and a bit low on spirit... that's the first time I've seen them that way!
They decide it's best to pull away in 2nd and hammer their bikes more this time, but the ultra-loose sand/fesh mix they stopped in made this not too easy... but off they went!
Giving them a bit more gap this time I caught up again, however after a longer stretch.
Parked under a tree, and contemplating their strategy for attacking the rest of this river: less mechanical sympathy but more violence, more hammering of their bikes, more speed etc should result in more sand-planing hence easier progress.... but first a little rest!

It is here I opened Hardy's coolerbox for the first time, and to my surprise I only found alcohol-free beer!!!
I'll get to this bit later but it was cold - so that was a no brainer then & there, we split two of them! Beer is a superb rehydrate so helps counter fatigue quick, so a big Thanks to the donor right here!
Also a big thumbs-up to Andrew & Steve both, because regaining their composure they sure did - I didn't see them again in that riverbed!!
In fact they went so well that they overshot the exit - bleddy maniacs!!!