The Wife, the Ex and the Kid

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Day 29 Grootfontein, Okamatapati, Okondjatu, Hochveld, Omitara, Arnhem Caves.

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We continue to pull a dust trail through Eastern Namibia.

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Okondjatu, we take a break.

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Peanut makes friends.

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This is the tyre I got in Oshakati. I don’t really care for it, but the lettering makes a nice effect in the dust. 

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When we reach Hochveld, where we have to refuel or be stuck, once again the fueling station is closed. I manage to find the pump attendant at his house and we are mobile again.

Our target for the day is Omitara. Our maps show fuel and a hotel, so it should be reasonable size. Except it isn’t. The hotel is closed and there is no other accommodation. In fact it takes us a while to find the town because there is no town, just a trading station. You can assume nothing in this country. The trading station has fuel at least, so we continue south and as the sun sets we find Arnhem Caves where we get a chalet.
 
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This is now the second day in a row where we spend the whole day riding side by side on these gravel highways. Other traffic is just about non-existant. It is the best riding and I am constantly thinking of my 1200 at home. I still love that bike.

 
Day 30 Arnhem Caves, Gochas, Stampriet, Koës

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The caves was used to mine bat guano and has the largest population of bats in Namibia. The caves is something like 4km long and is apparently well worth seeing, but we are on a roll now and get going before sunrise.

This is also when we find out that another Cape cold front is moving up Namibia. Very, very cold. We stop to wrap plastic bags around our gloves, we are not geared for the cold. While we are riding I’m thinking, just 30 min more, then it should start warming up. By 10 o’clock it becomes clear that this is just a piss cold day and it's gonna stay that way.

When we refuel in Stampriet, we pop into a lodge for something to eat. Even there in the warm lounge I sit shivering for the better part of an hour. When we leave there we feel much better.

Some roadside scenery.

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This is a sociable weaver nest. These birds can build massive nests. This is a smallish one. 

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I’ve been looking forward to today because we get to ride the dune rollercoaster between Gochas and Koës.
 
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The road that had been running in a dune street turns 90 degrees and then goes up and over dunes every 500m for about 20km.

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They are nice and high and the road is in excellent condition.

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The ideal speed is 160km/h, then the bike loses traction at the top and you get that lekker stomach-in-your-throat feeling as you drop down the other side. Unfortunately the X is not that fast and I have to make do at 140km/h. Still very entertaining.

Tharina is also hanging on the cable.

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When we pull into Koës Hotel, it is locked up.

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Wtf? In the last couple of days we’ve had a whole road, the D3306 disappear, we’ve had Otjtuuo with no fuel after local knowledge confirmed there is, we’ve had Omitara with no place to stay, the hotel having closed down and now Koës. And I know Koës, I’ve stayed here many times. In this hotel.

Another couple from Germany also arrives looking for accomodation. Some asking around and half an hour later Tharina has the owner on the line. It appears that this is the weekend of the Keetmanshoop Landbou Skou, a 130km away. So he closed the hotel and went to the show.

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But it’s no problem, we can go round the back (the dogs are fine but watch the warthog), it is open. We can take what we need from the fridge and the keys to the rooms are in the kitchen. He’ll be back later tonight or maybe tomorrow.

Namibians. You just don’t get better.

So we have wine, cheese and biscuits on the stoep with the Germans.

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Just across from the hotel is a farm with some tamish oryx. I try many times to get a good pic, but everytime I take a picture, this clown pulls a face.

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Ah, got him.

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We braai that evening and just before we turn in the owner arrives. His name is Bonzai, and he has an interesting job. He ‘harvests’ game, like springbuck and oryx, all over Namibia.

A farmer may have, for argument sake, 400 head of springbuck that he wants to convert to money. To get paying recreational hunters that each shoot maybe 3 or 5 buck is impractical. So Bonzai and his team come and do night harvesting where they shoot and slaughter about 150 head in a night. They have a mobile abattoir that operates on the farm where they are harvesting. They pay the farmer per kilogram, and they supply to butcheries, export etc.

 
this is so wrong to read, i'm sure we all want to go there and to the same

MJ what were your costs on this trip
if you don't mind me asking

still the best RR
 
Day 31 Koës to Karasburg

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Just outside Koes is a pan where we take a couple of pics before we hit the road.

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We have only done a hundred or so kilometres when the DRZ snaps it’s new chain. As I expect it turns out to be the masterlink that went its own way. I just don't trust those things. Again, luckily I had packed another masterlink and I’m able to fix it by the roadside.

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Normally the metal chain guide around the front sprocket stops the chain from bunching in there and breaking the engine casing apart. In some manner the chain managed to get past the guard and wedge itself between the sprocket and the casing. We are lucky not to have more damage.

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A quick run to check that all is well again in DRZ country.

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Humorous farmers.

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And just really good riding in beautiful surrounds. For the first time in four days we have to break up our two abreast riding style as the road starts twisting through the Karasberge.

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We keep going and stop for a sleepover in Karasburg.
 
Yes MJ ................... and what a nice guy this Bonzai is. Did you meet his mom and dad ......... Johan and Grietjie Combrinck ? Johan was the local dominee and hotel owner when I was there some years ago. We stayed there for about a week and I went on one of the night harvest's with Bonzai. Hell that guy can shoot .................  :thumleft:
 
Karasburg to Vioolsdrift

The last day of our trip and the cold is still making us wrap plastic bags around our hands. Airflow gloves were never made for this kind of thing.

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The last stretch, up ahead is South Africa.

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And we’re back. Six thousand kilometers later. Everybody safe, and with a great sense of accomplishment.  Every one of us having learned a whole lot, having grown a whole lot.

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On our way home. Immeasurably richer than a month ago.

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ONE OF THE BEST TRIPS I HAVE EVER HAD



.
 
Oom Foe-rie said:
Yes MJ ................... and what a nice guy this Bonzai is. Did you meet his mom and dad ......... Johan and Grietjie Combrinck ? Johan was the local dominee and hotel owner when I was there some years ago. We stayed there for about a week and I went on one of the night harvest's with Bonzai. Hell that guy can shoot .................  :thumleft:
And Johan were the dominee at Van Wyksdorp near Ladismith Cape before he bought the hotel in Koës. Bonzai is Johans son-in-law.
Stunning people all of them!
Im glad you had a safe trip MJ and family.
Thanks for posting.
 
MJ....thank you so much for sharing you and your families trip with us. When i met you at Wildthings base at Vioolsdrift & you said you were going on a ride in Nam i had no idea it would be so epic!
Ride and stay safe to you and and your wonderful family :thumleft:
 
madmike999 said:
this is so wrong to read, i'm sure we all want to go there and to the same

MJ what were your costs on this trip
if you don't mind me asking

still the best RR

I'll check with Tharina and get back to you.


Oom Foe-rie said:
Yes MJ ................... and what a nice guy this Bonzai is. Did you meet his mom and dad ......... Johan and Grietjie Combrinck ? Johan was the local dominee and hotel owner when I was there some years ago. We stayed there for about a week and I went on one of the night harvest's with Bonzai. Hell that guy can shoot .................  :thumleft:

I only met his dad some years ago. Yes, Bonzai is quite the character, his wife is also very nice. I believe the crew on the night harvests are only allowed to shoot headshots, that's going to take some skill.

 
Wow . :eek: ... thank you for that very inspirational, entertaining RR ... I look so forward to our Namibian trip .... to be planned not too far in the future.  :3some:
 
WOOOHOOO!!!

Baie baie nice MJ. Dankie vir die deel, dit is inspireerend!
 
Metaljockey said:
madmike999 said:
this is so wrong to read, i'm sure we all want to go there and to the same

MJ what were your costs on this trip
if you don't mind me asking

still the best RR

I'll check with Tharina and get back to you.


Oom Foe-rie said:
Yes MJ ................... and what a nice guy this Bonzai is. Did you meet his mom and dad ......... Johan and Grietjie Combrinck ? Johan was the local dominee and hotel owner when I was there some years ago. We stayed there for about a week and I went on one of the night harvest's with Bonzai. Hell that guy can shoot .................  :thumleft:

I only met his dad some years ago. Yes, Bonzai is quite the character, his wife is also very nice. I believe the crew on the night harvests are only allowed to shoot headshots, that's going to take some skill.
Its true about the headshots MJ. Having said that a lot of those hunters are Springbok shots(bisley)(spelling)! I witnessed one such a hunt one night. Any Springbok shot 4 fingers below the ear they pay a penalty on.
 
I'd love to read a bike critique of the X some time
it is sure to be interesting and probably a little controversial ;)
 
Great report.  Thanks

Tharina's bike has Tubliss but yours does not it seems.  Why?
 

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