Transkei, ndiyavuya ukukwazi (WD Bash 2012)

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LuckyStriker

Bachelor Dog
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
10,160
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18
Location
Bellville
Bike
BMW G650 X-challenge
Bellville to Graaff-Reinet
679km, 10hours


I left home at 07:20. It was misty and cold as I descended the ramp onto the N1, north.
It was a weekday, so I had to jostle for position, competing with rumbling trucks and busy little hatchbacks. The hustle and bustle tapered off as I reached Paarl.
Today would be a solo ride for me and I made the most of it by stopping wherever and whenever I wanted. Repeat-singing choruses in my helmet as I went, over and over and over...

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S33.72814 E19.07290 – Du Toitskloof Pass
I don’t usually like to put frames and effect on my photos. The most I will alter my images is to boost the brightness and/or contrast, nothing you can’t do in a darkroom. But I thought I’d give this a try.

I stopped on Du Toitskloof Pass to say goodbye to the Cape. Below me lay the Boland, to the right was the Swartland, and in the distance the Metropole which marks the start of the West Coast – except everyone knows the Real West Coast doesn’t start until you reach Velddrif.

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S33.32049 E20.04047 – Toastrivier

After filling up with fuel in Worcester I headed up to Touwsrivier where I tucked into a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. My sustenance for the day.

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S33.24189 E20.47778 – Matjiesfontein cemetery

Access to the dirt track that leads down to the cemetery is sometimes prevented by a locked gate. It seems to be the local landowner’s prerogative whether it is unlocked or not.

There are two obelisks on the koppie. One was erected in memory of George Maxwell Grant, killed in a rail accident, and the other is a British Army memorial in honour of Major-General Andrew Wauchope, affectionately known as "Red Mick."
A hero of Scotland, General Wauchope was killed at the Battle of Magersfontein, near Kimberley, during the Anglo-Boer War. Wauchope’s grave in the cemetery below is marked by a simple sandstone memorial erected by his wife Jean.
Nearby are the graves of James D Logan, founder of Matjiesfontein, and his wife Emma. Their daughter, Catherine, son Daddy Jim, and several other family members lie nearby.
In the cemetery are many other historic graves, including that of English cricketer Edward Alfred Lohmann, considered to have been one of the world’s greatest all-rounders ever. – www.thegreatkaroo.com

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S33.23115 E20.58093 – Matjiesfontein

I planned my route weeks before. Along with Google Earth I used MapSource to plot an interesting route that would make frequent use of Transnet service roads. Matjiesfontein had one which would take me over bridges and riverbeds and I was really looking forward to riding it. Unfortunately access to the road was denied by a chained gate and a heavy padlock. On with the highway...

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S33.17563 E20.98525
The Geelbek River Blockhouse was built by the British in 1901 to guard the bridge over the Geelbek River. This blockhouse was declared a National Monument in 1965. There are three other blockhouses in the vicinity. They were built to guard the bridges over the Dwyka River at Ketting and Dwyka. The two blockhouses at Dwyka station are known as "the twin towers of the Dwyka" referred to by Denys Reitz in his book "Op kommando". The one at Ketting Station was immortalised by Rudyard Kipling in his poem "Bridge Guard in the Karoo". – www.heritage.org.za

In Beaufort West the mercury reached an impressive 45°C. My cheap thermometer may have been exaggerating but it certainly was hot! I made my way to another blockhouse just outside town. On my way there I was accosted by three thugs who tried to push me off my bike. I opened the throttle and they rethought their plan. They hurled insults and jeers as I rumbled past and I could see them pursuing me on foot for a short distance. I quickly outpaced them.

The blockhouse was in a miserable state of repair and I didn’t hang around for long. The cracked masonry and vandalised interior wasn’t particularly photogenic.
As I got back on my bike I saw the three hooligans climbing up the hill towards me. I rode away, chuckling at their clownish inability to capture me.

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S32.35757 E22.97902 – Windpump

The mercury in the thermometer dropped progressively as I left Beaufort West behind. I stopped by a windpump on the farm Elandsfontein. There was the merest breeze in the air, but the well-greased machine whirred away cheerfully ejaculating water at every stroke.

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S32.49391 E23.57495 - Farm school

Near the Kariga River a few kilometres after the dam I came across this old farm school. The structure was in immaculate condition but there were no children attending classes. It was a weekday and still early afternoon. Puzzling...

Eventually - but surprisingly early - I rolled into Graaff-Reinet. The town was abuzz with pre-festival jitters. Several events were to take place that weekend, including a Harley Davidson gathering and some arts and culture festival. Banners, bunting and lanterns were going up everywhere.

I turned into Urquart Campsite, negotiated my accommodation, and headed over to the dam wall.

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S32.23607 E24.52815 - Vanryneveldspas Dam

The dam was overflowing which made for great photo opportunities.
Afterwards I selected a spot to pitch my tent and made camp. My cellphone rang, it was Kaboef.
Kaboef would be my riding buddy from the next day onwards. Also joining us later that evening would be oo7 and superfoxi.

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S32.24069 E24.52821 - My tent at Urquhart Camp.

Kaboef had a slight problem; he was stuck on the side of the road with a flat tyre, 35km outside town. I had all the spare tubes with me so naturally I had to go help him.
The offending tube was replaced in no time at all. We got to camp just as darkness fell. As soon as I poured a whiskey my cellphone rang once again. oo7 and superfoxi were close. Light the fires!

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Photo by Kaboef

It was a balmy evening. There was no need for a tent and one could probably have kipped on the grass, wearing little more than trousers and a t-shirt. The fire burned late into the night but I was the first to hit the sack. It turns out that you can’t expect to party all night long when you’ve only had a toasted ham and cheese sandwich the entire day. The braaivleis of the evening came far too late to serve as a liner against the drink.
 
Graaff-Reinet to Snow Valley
537km, 10hours


Everyone rose at first light. Any threats of a hangover were quickly quelled by a Wimpy breakfast. Soon we four were roaring over the landscape, north.

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S32.48972 E25.18462 - Koppie near Buffelshoek Pass

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S32.48420 E25.22373 - View from Buffelshoek Pass

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S32.23988 E25.56439 - On top of Swaershoek Pass outside Cradock

Cradock is a typical Eastern Cape dorp. Most of its infrastructure is geared toward agriculture. The cultural monuments celebrated mainly Afrikaner achievements with some New South Africa Statues depicting liberty and freedom.

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S32.16538 E25.61309 - A miniature version of the Voortrekker monument

We didn’t linger. After fuelling up we continued uphill to the highlands of the Bamboesberg. Near the town of Sterkstroom the wind was tearing across the grasslands. Four bikes were leaning into it at crazy angles.
The gale mercifully quieted down outside Dordrecht.

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S31.51410 E26.67433 - Hans Donsieskraal near Dordrecht

In Dordrecht we met up with a bunch of Wild Dogs. Stoetie was there, so was ChrisL, and Snafu. Snafu’s GSA had a sheared bolt on the rear shock and it appeared that his trip might be over. We left him there and continued north. He did manage to fix it that night and followed us the next day.

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S31.12642 E27.29574 - Greylings Pass, outside the village of Rossouw

Our group was now 6 men strong. It was pouring with rain and the gravel roads were turning to mud. The light was failing fast and the distance to the Bash location seemed to tick over at a maddeningly slow pace.

But we got there, and we were welcomed. We were ready to have a great time.
 
The bash

I won’t say much about it, except that it was good. One of the best ones actually.

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S30.70350 E27.74298

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S30.70350 E27.74298 - Dogs on a rock

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S30.70350 E27.74298 – Wheelies!

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S30.70350 E27.74298 - Carpeting was nice

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S30.70350 E27.74298 - Red head

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Corpses
 
Snow Valley to Port St Johns
287km, 6hours


Reportedly the temperature held at -3°C the entire night, but when I woke up at 05:00 my thermometer read -8°C. I hastily returned to my sleeping bag and waited for the sun to rise. Once dawn broke the temperature climbed quickly. It remained cold but at least we weren’t freezing our nuts off anymore.

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S30.70350 E27.74298  -8°C Damn that’s cold

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S30.70350 E27.74298 – Stay frosty, photo by Kaboef

Everyone packed up and we said our goodbyes. It was great seeing familiar faces and meeting new people. Hopefully we’ll all see each other again next year.

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S31.13155 E27.89020

It was now time for Kaboef and me to ride to Transkei. oo7 and superfoxi rode with us for the best part of the morning but that partnership also came to an end as we parted ways. They going on to Elliot and we riding over Bastervoetpad.

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Photo by Kaboef

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S31.18176 E27.97444 - The Eastern Cape as seen from Mount Enterprise
Bastervoetpad is truly awesome. I cannot recommend it strongly enough. You have to keep your wits about you though, especially when you descend down it - which is the best direction because you get to admire the view the whole time.

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S31.17052 E28.01940 – Reminiscent of Golden gate

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S31.18192 E28.06090 – Pines

At the bottom of the pass the grasslands give way to pine plantations.

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S31.19630 E28.23240 - Dog

We stopped in the run down town of Ugie. Man, what a dump. After filling up on fuel we rode to the local Spar to grab something to eat. I went for a pie and enormous Russian which brought on an attack of heartburn the likes I have never felt before.

From there we travelled to Mthatha which is the wildest city I have ever been to. The people are crazy and lawless. It doesn’t seem possible that such a place could exist. How are the large office buildings and the surrounding gardens maintained when the expensive German saloons in the parking lot all have dented bumpers? How can the place function when everyone seems so dysfunctional?

We got out of dodge and rode down to Port Saint Johns where a beer was calling my name.

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S31.62631 E29.54470 - Our tent on a deck at Jungle Monkey Backpackers

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Views from my balcony

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Views from my balcony

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Photo by Kaboef
The mural on the bar wall shows the layout of the town. Much of the action happens at Second Beach further on down the road.

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S31.62631 E29.54470 - The chill room at Jungle Monkeys

It was late afternoon when I popped the cap off my beer. It was good but the tropical fruit trees around us seemed to require an alternative beverage. Rum, I thought. The coke-blackened pirate drinks fell one after the other and soon I was friendly and talkative. We introduced ourselves to the proprietor and learnt how he contracted Pondo Fever - trading his Johannesburg life for cash and now living it up down here.

Useful Xhosa phrase: Impilo! / cheers!

A waiflike Xhosa woman sat herself down next to Kaboef and I. It wasn’t long before she produced a photograph of herself on some beach. On it she was dressed in shorts and a revealing T-shirt that almost exposed a breast. She looked happy, surrounded by bottles of sparkling wine and pink drinks. I looked up from the picture and reckoned that she probably wanted to return to the state she was in when that image was taken.

Useful Xhosa phrase: Ndiyavuya ukukwazi / Pleased to meet you

When she started demanding brutal fruits in exchange for her company I decided to down my last rum and get a bottle of red wine instead. Not to get romantic, but to cure myself of jungle fever and get serious enough to decline her advances. It turned out she was a working girl that ran on low octane spirit aperitifs. A more troublesome combination I could not imagine.

Useful Xhosa phrase: uMfana uzakubhatala yonke into / This lady will pay for everything

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S31.62631 E29.54470 - Musicians at Jungle Monkey

michnus, Metaljockey and their wives joined us later that night. We were entertained by musicians wielding small guitars and bongo drums, hippies all...
kaboef, michnus and the girls eventually retired to their respective beds but I was determined to outlast Metaljockey.

Useful Xhosa phrase: Siya namkela nonke / Welcome

A Xhosa lady later took the stage. Her name was Asanda. Metaljockey winked knowingly at me. What have we here? I wondered, not expecting a Tracy Chapman. As soon as she started to sing I felt chills run down my spine. Her voice was like the bubbling rivers of the valleys, the whispering winds through pine trees, the golden sunset on the bluffs. Perhaps it was the alcohol, but I was riveted. I felt the wine dragging me down so I switched to beer again to get a fresh perspective on my surroundings.

Useful Xhosa phrase: Ngubani igama lakho? / What’s your name?

She was not only attractive but soulful. This woman had depth and grace, unlike the barefoot chick with the dirty blonde dreadlocks that went on stage before.
Metaljockey and I sat listening to her sing. The bar eventually emptied out and the bored bartender had only three customers - Asanda had come to sit with the two of us. I offered my appreciation and tried a cultural analogy to sound smart. I realised instead that I was too drunk to even attempt intelligent conversation.

Useful Xhose phrase: Liphi igumbi langasese? / Where’s the toilet

I let MJ do the talking while I just sat there grinning like a fool. Good grief she was a breath-taking woman! She would occasionally look at me and enquire in her ethereal voice. I would attempt to answer but invariably **** it up. Time to go, I thought. So I apologised for the un-gentlemanly act of leaving a lady like a hot potato, and wobbled back to my safari tent.

Useful Xhosa phrase: Rhonanai / Good night

Kaboef occupied the mattress on the floor, leaving the bed for me. Enkosi
 
Port St Johns to Coffee Bay
139km, 5hours


We were slow in getting going. First on the agenda was a trip to the laundry. I ran into Asanda on my way past the chill-out room. She remembered my name, which embarrassed me a little. She wasn’t as attractive as I remembered, but she still had that perfect voice and private school accent. No longer enamoured/hammered, we exchanged short pleasantries before I sat down for breakfast.

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S31.60412 E29.52709 - The view from the airfield

Kaboef led the way up Mount Thesiger where there was an airstrip. It was the kind that if you overshot you would plummet to your death off a cliff into a forest far below. The Mzimvubu River ran brown, indicative of soil erosion perhaps caused by floods or poor farming practises further upstream.

A lone plane with a tired looking fuselage sat on the apron. We took turns racing our bikes up and down the uneven runway, glancing up occasionally to make sure there weren’t incoming aircraft.

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Natural hazards

Cattle are of course the official animal of the Transkei. You’ll find them anywhere. They have right of way. They seem to know it too and have no issue with shamelessly walking out in front of your bike.

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S31.62409 E29.53309 - The ‘old town’ of Port St Johns

The commercial district of Port St Johns is a busy place with loud music and lots of cajoling and scamming. You don’t see too many liberal hippies hanging around here. A friend of mine attended a New Years street party here a couple of years ago. A female reveller was ***** by a crowd of men right there on the sidewalk. All the ‘sensitive’ European party goers were rushed to their backpackers where they could be kept safe against the boisterous locals.

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Transkei

The unoccupied land (of which there isn’t much) is quite beautiful with remnants of forests still clinging to life in valleys. Mostly there is only tall shrubbery and invasive species.

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Transkei

In occupied areas there are barely any trees. All of it long ago chopped down for firewood or timber. Who is to blame for the desolate landscape? Who knows. It’s what you get when you keep that many people holed up in a relatively small space with no chance of economic growth. It may have been coming on since before Apartheid, I don’t know. All I know is that there is something sad about such a large tract of land that is totally devoid of birds, moles, anything. Except cows, goats and dogs.
Nice lawns though, should be good for golfing.

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Another valley with no one living there. Lovely

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S31.75305 E29.36729 - Sinangwana mouth

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Photo by Kaboef
The people of Transkei are very friendly. They struggle with poverty and the resulting domestic violence issues but somehow it’s always easy to get a smile from them.

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S31.78587 E29.29366 – Crossing the Mnenu River, photo by Kaboef

Many bridges have been destroyed by floods over the years. If it’s not on a main route then it’s not a priority to fix. One does occasionally come across large construction crews repairing or building new bridges so it’s not a forgotten or neglected province.

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S31.86422 E29.19844 – ‘unpaved road’, photo by Kaboef

Occasionally my GPS would **** up and lead us on ‘unpaved roads’ which aren’t even roads but eroded footpaths. It was entertaining when it happened but I’m sure the locals didn’t find it funny when we rode through their back yards kicking dust onto linen drying on the lines. We in turn were glad we didn’t ride larger bikes.

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S31.98851 E29.14608 - Bomvu Backpackers in Coffee Bay, photo by Kaboef

We eventually arrived in Coffee bay. We only travelled 130km but it took us over 5 hours to ride it! There are several backpackers in Coffee Bay and I suspect we chose the second worse one. I know it’s not the worst one because the only other one we checked out looked really, really bad. Once again the people were friendly. The cook was high as a kite and had telltale glazed over eyes and non sequitur conversations.

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The fire pit at Bomvu

Our room wasn’t great and I suspected I could have had a far better night in my tent. Another dilemma was money. We had R240 between the two of us and we needed to eat, buy beer, and get fuel for our bikes in the morning. Kaboef and I both hankered after some weed, but we had to choose between beer and marijuana - we couldn’t afford both.

It was National Braai Day and the cook had a special on a plate of braaivleis. Unfortunately the guy was unable to stay focussed and would wander off without bothering to turn the meat. The manageress had to take over his duties while he played trippy music on his cellphone hooked up to portable speakers. He was completely enthralled by the tunes and would occasionally go into a trance-like state whilst murmuring ill remembered lyrics. We went to bed rather early that night. Kaboef chose to sleep in his sleeping bag because the duvet smelled bad.
 
Coffee bay to Morgan Bay
260km, 9hours


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S31.98738 E29.14909 - Nenga River mouth, Coffee Bay

We were up and out of Bomvu as soon as we could. At around 08:00 we pulled up to the fuel pumps, eager to start the day. We learnt that the pumps only opened at 09:00, so we bided our time as best we could.
After eventually filling up with fuel, Kaboef sauntered off to the bottle store to pick up two pints of Black Label. The last of our cash now gone.

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S32.03832 E29.10604 - Hole in the Wall

Hole in the Wall is a fantastic place. It was smaller than I thought it would be but also far more beautiful that I imagined.
We plonked ourselves down on the grass and enjoyed the hell out of those two beers.

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Cows roamed the hillside, mowing the lawn as they go.

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It was probably the best beer I have ever tasted.

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S32.02336 E28.84831

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Photo by Kaboef
I like taking landscape images. Kaboef is a little more candid and has no issues with calling someone over to pose for him. I was glad of it.

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Photo by Kaboef

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S32.06696 E28.81412 – Photo by Kaboef

Before we left on this trip I asked michnus for any GPS tracks he might have of the area. The track I got from him looked awesome and I loaded it onto my own GPS receiver. Unfortunately the track had somehow become corrupted and would not load. I therefore had to work from memory and trust the routing software to get us to interesting places. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn’t.

I originally wanted to take the road marked Wild Coast 4wd-trail on Tracks4Africa to the Dwesa-Cwebe Wildlife Reserve but the routing just wouldn’t put us on the right roads. So in the end we gave up and headed up to the dam over the Mbashe River, which looked interesting a week ago on Google Earth.

On the way there we passed through Elliotdale - a particularly unimpressive dump. There were masses of people milling around the taxi rank. The town appeared to be a hub of some kind. The entire southern Transkei probably passed through here to stock up on provisions before heading elsewhere. The various shops certainly seemed to stock everything you needed.

A small troop of Chinese marched by, which looked a little odd. There didn’t seem to be any tourist attractions in Elliotdale but they were clicking away with their cameras just the same. It occurred to me that they could be scouting new business opportunities. Once supplied, we left Elliotdale and made our way over to the dam.

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S32.00006 E28.58233 - Dam in the Mbashe River, photo by Kaboef

The dam wasn’t quite as monolithic as I’d hoped but it offered a few shady spots where we could enjoy bullybeef sandwiches.

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S32.00006 E28.58233 - Mbashe River, Naboom

The landscape quickly became less densely populated. The GPS reported that the Kei River (the old border between the Republic and this former homeland) was only a few kilometres away. Soon there were no houses at all, almost as if the Xhosa people felt uncomfortable living that close to European Africa.

We descended a hill and saw the ferry sailing away to the opposite shore of the mighty Kei. I anticipated a long wait for the ferry to fill and make the return journey toward us. When we got to the beach we discovered that the ferry pilot had spotted us and turned around to pick us up.

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S32.67330 E28.37970 - Kei Mouth ferry. R60 for cars and R50 for bikes, photo by Kaboef

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S32.67330 E28.37970

The pilot was a stoic chap. I thanked him for picking us up and I got a friendly smile but it disappeared just as quickly. He was dressed in a Sharks shirt which was something of a surprise. The past three days I got the impression that the people of the Transkei, black or white, didn’t associate with the rest of the Republic.

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The ferry dropped us off and I could feel an immediate change. The land here looked different. We rode through tropical forests on good tar roads. When we joined the main road there were dozens of cars, half of them occupied by whites.

I won’t lie to you. It felt good to to ride fine roads and see squirrels and birds and stuff. But the contrast with the land north of the Kei was a little unsettling. I disliked the preposterous wealth of Morgan bay. It felt wrong that black people were laborers in this town while across the river they were kings of their own castles.

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S32.70667 E28.34443 - Morgan Bay campsite

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S32.70667 E28.34443 - Morgan Bay campsite

It was a good evening at Morgan bay. Any lingering feelings of white guilt soon disappeared and I just appreciated the comfort of clean ablutions and healthy trees. C'est la vie, I guess.
 
Morgan Bay to Kirkwood
468km, 8hours


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S32.77915 E26.63530
Martello Tower in Fort Beaufort. It is one of only two in South Africa, the other being in Simonstown. It is unique in being the only one in the world constructed inland and not on the coast. – people.ru.ac.za

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S32.77915 E26.63530
This tower was constructed around 1840, and apparently "never saw a shot fired in anger". – people.ru.ac.za
With that canon I should think not

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S33.18146 E26.61695
Ecca Pass outside Grahamstown

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The Fortified Gangers Cottage was built in 1878 during the Frontier Wars between the European settlers and the Xhosa people. It was meant to protect railway workers (gangers) from being attacked by marauding Xhosa warriors.
It was declared a National Monument on 3 December 1976. There are four tambours, one on each corner of the cottage, with slits in them so that the gangers could defend themselves against attack. – Nightjar Travel

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S33.32082 E26.51636 - Settlers National Monument at Grahamstown

By now it had become something of a ritual to have one beer on the road. With our two pints of Black Label, Kaboef and I rode up to the Settlers monument so that we could enjoy the beers with a view. There were too many tourists around and it felt awkward having the beers there. So we replaced them in our luggage and went off in search of a place to drink them in peace.

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S33.32343 E26.48917 - Beer break

Outside Grahamstown we encountered a shady grove where we could sit back and reflect. That was a good beer also, but sadly not even close the ones we had at Hole in the Wall.
We tried to stick to back roads as much as possible even though the temptation to take it easy on tarred highways was starting to become overwhelming. Around us were tall game fences. Up ahead a big gate.

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S33.46592 E26.06340 - Shamwari Game Reserve

I roared past the guards at the gate. Screw this I thought. I’m not back tracking along an hour’s worth of dirt roads just to bypass whatever this place is. It turned out to be Shamwari game Reserve, as exclaimed by the logos on the side of the game viewer I had just passed.
Kaboef was a little ways behind me. He stopped to take a picture of the surprised guards, before riding past them. Cheeky *******!

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S33.46592 E26.06340 - Shamwari Game Reserve

Now inside the reserve we saw a rhino mom and her calf, quite close to the road. Unfortunately I was slow and they disappeared into the rough before I could get my camera out. There were a multitude of animals, at the point where it resembled a zoo more than natural habitat. In fact, I suspect some of their antelope species don’t even to coexist in nature. But it was all good.

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S33.46592 E26.06340 - Shamwari Game Reserve

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Photo by Kaboef

It was late afternoon when we pulled into Kirkwood. After resupplying for the night we rode to the farm where we planned to spend the night. It was a citrus farm on the outskirts of town called Sitrusoewer Rivieroord (Citrus Shore River Camp) run by the farmer himself. A man with the solid name of Johan Swart.

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S33.41730 E25.36029 - Sitrusoewer River Camp in Kirkwood

We pitched tents and were welcomed by a group of holiday makers from Despatch. Here comes trouble, I thought. Brandy and coke in hand, cigarette hanging precariously from the lower lip, one of them moseyed over. His name was Morné and his buddy over there was Mike. Mike was a soft spoken giant who preferred to imbibe from a 2litre magnum naturally sweet red wine.

We had a great time with the chaps but trouble was brewing the whole time. Eventually Morné’s wife dragged him away and told him to get in bed. He slurred in protest but she was a formidable woman with a scowling mouth filled with buckteeth. I could not even contemplate resisting her and hoped that Morné would obey.

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S33.41730 E25.36029 - Sitrusoewer River Camp in Kirkwood
 
Kirkwood to Oudtshoorn
420km, 8hours


We broke down our camp as soon as we could. We had a long day ahead of us. Not because of the distance (420km) but because it involved a 4wd track that reportedly had not been driven in years, and which few people knew of. The only person who could give me any info on the trail was our own Jupiter and he sounded apprehensive. He warned me that we would not be able to do it in one go. Even with the X-challenges it would be tough.

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Hit the road again

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Steytlerville

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Cement road outside Steytlerville

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I ran out of fuel near Willowmore

We eventually got to the start of the Kamanassie 4wd-trail and stopped at Bokkie van Rensburg’s farmhouse to get the gate keys. Bokkie was a tall man with friendly yet coarse manners, like most Klein-Karoo farmers. He seemed excited by our plans and had no problem with us crossing his land.
So we had permission to ride the route? No.

Bokkie insisted that it would be impossible. He had not ridden the trail in close to a year and the recent storms had washed away parts of the route. We assured him that we knew how to handle ourselves and never shy away from a little suffering. Bokkie didn’t give in. He guaranteed that we would not be able to ford the many river crossings.

He knew what plastic bikes could do. He had seen them on the trail before. But he very much doubted that we could do it with our bikes. I started to believe him but Kaboef didn’t want to back down quite yet. Bokkie further told us that they were thinking of allowing the trail to wear away completely since the farmer near the end of the trail didn’t want vehicles to scare his ostriches. Fair enough.

We relented, Kaboef more reluctantly than I, and rode the Kamanassie dirt road along the river instead. We reached Oudtshoorn early and took our time shopping at Pick and Pay, choosing prime cuts, fruit salad, garlic bread and good whiskey. That night would be the last on the trip. Let’s make it a good one.

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S33.41541 E22.27381 - Cango Mountain Resort

We camped at the Cango Mountain Resort 25km outside town. It was a good looking place but it had few amenities. Ablutions and firewood was the best we could hope for. They didn’t even have cellphone reception which was inconvenient because my wife was standing by to hear if we had survived the 4wd-trail.
I phoned her on a payphone, after studying the tutorial pictograms in depth. It had been ages since I used a tickybox.

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We were informed that we would be joined by a busload of students later that evening. Kaboef and I had visions of nubile Swedish exchange students but alas. The bus did eventually pull in but was transporting 40 screaming pre-teens. Mercifully they stayed at a dorm at the far end of the camp and we wouldn’t have to put up with them.

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Oudtshoorn to Bellville
439km, 8hours


It rained when we got up. It rained when we took down our tents. It rained all the way to Cape Town.

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S33.60210 E22.05686 – With a silent whoosh, the tyre blew out

At 130km/h the rear wheel suddenly began squirming. What the hell is this now, I thought. I slacked off, not really wanting to stop. At 80km/h it slogged left and right again. Kaboef pulled up and motioned for me to pull over. The tyre had gone flat, the tube had blown out.

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There was nowhere dry to change the tyre so we chose the least drizzly place which was an old widowmaker eucalyptus off the road. Upon closer inspection it transpired that the valve had ripped. The inside of the tyre was wet with slime.
We carefully cleaned the tyre and inserted a fresh tube, taking care not to drop spacers and washers on the muddy ground. It was freezing and not at all fun to repair a bike in these conditions.

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Outside Ladismith, photo by Kaboef

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S33.77905 E20.93260 – Ronnies

One must of course stop at Ronnies *** Shop. The place was busy. Several hundred bikers were riding up to Harrismith for the annual Rhino Rally. We had burgers and OBS for lunch before continuing in the rain toward Cape Town.

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S33.87281 E18.64429 – Hollow Tree

Home, at my beloved local watering hole, just as the clouds cleared and the sun came out. It was almost as if the Cape welcomed us back.

Thank you. I am LuckyStriker and this was a live broadcast from my studio in Auckland Park

-end
 
Fantastic RR!  :thumright:

Thanks for all the amazing photographs from the Transkei. Monkeyboy and myself are heading there in December, and so excited to see what it looks like!

Might be picking your brain closer to the time, if that is okay.
 
Great Ride Report LS

I wish I could take photos as well as you do.
 
Great stuff, LS. The Transkei remains the bestest place ever. Excellent pics too.
 
LS you have given me a leason in so many things here in this report and have enjoyed reading every minute of it .

Nice one.

Thankyou
 
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