Rain during the night left the tarmac cold and damp. Two large XR650Rs rumbled out of the quiet Loresho neighborhood, keeping speeds and RPMs to an appropriate level for the hour, and taking it easy with knobby tires on the damp streets. All was going well for the first five turns, but on the sixth, Panic decided to perform a slow-speed low-side right in the middle of the street. You know, just to test his gear. It was like an omen of ill things to come, but we ignored it. Dusted off, bike none the worse for wear (tough beasts, these) and rider only a bit bruised and annoyed with himself, we set off down the familiar madcap streets of Nairobi, searching for the safety of dirt, stones and whistlethorns.
Riding bikes on tarmac in Africa is a form of torture, especially during rainy season. In Nairobi, a bit of rain makes people insane… as if they were Gremlins squirted with a garden hose or something. Never adept, respectful or even sensible in the best of times, during or after a rain the city’s drivers become positively mental. Suddenly they’re all on high alert for potholes and swerve madly to avoid even the smallest of them, oncoming vehicles be damned, eyes fixed only a few feet in front of their bumpers if they’re not glued to their cell phones. Our day rides only include 15km of tarmac, but I swear it felt like 150 today. There were half a dozen different types of slick stuff on the roads: red clay from dump truck wheels, oil from broken down lorries, the mysterious black grease of human habitation near shops (maybe it’s refined banana peels, I dunno), etc. By the time I got my tires on the dirt, my nerves were jangling like a Lingala guitar riff.
But soon, all was right in the world. We left the cars and drivers behind and sped down our familiar tracks, out toward the Magadi Road and down a brilliant track I found Tuesday on my solo ride. Some tracks have a good rhythm. This is one of them. Lots of little twists and turns, all drift-able, interspersed with a rocky section or two and ending in a flat flood-plain where I raced behind a male Grant’s gazelle –taking chunks of dirt to the visor, kicked up like a roost – and clocked him doing 75kph before I ran off the track, having missed the corner. Brilliant.
Above: The pigs ain’t no gazelles: as far as motorbikes go, they’re the king of the beasts, and this is their kingdom
Above: The flood plain, not yet flooded, great for chasing gazelle
Above: Ladies, ladies, ladies!
The new section led us to the long, fast zip down past the Butt Brother’s Farm and connected us with the stone-embedded track leading to Mile-46 that has maimed the rims and pinched the tubes of many a fancier bike. The plan was to grab a soda and maybe play around in a riverbed awhile, but Mr. Panic had other ideas. Just before the village, the bone-racking stone road turns to flowing hard-packed sand, and the only thing to do is drift every corner. But, get overzealous with the throttle and you might see your ***, which is just what Panic did. Coming hot into a gentle right-hand bend, he gave it that extra squirt and found himself sliding sideways and looking at his headlight, performing some form of low-side/high-side routine (we can’t figure it out) and ending up in a heap gasping for breath.
It was time for that soda. We stopped, pushed his handlebars back to some semblance of straightness (again, the bike was fine otherwise), yakked with a booze-reeking Masai mzee. Panic popped an ibuprofen, very Zen about the whole thing: “falling’s part of riding”. Still, it probably didn’t make sense to keep pushing too much, so we aimed for Olepolos and a big kuku choma and beers. On the way, I nearly had a head-on with a pickup grinding its way out of a rocky riverbed (me: “Oh chips!” Brake, skid 45 degrees left, skid 45 degrees right, throttle on and around) and had a number of close-calls with would be tank-slappers (thank you GPR stabilizer). The Universe clearly wanted to remind us who was boss.
https://Above: Ladies, ladies, ladies!
The new section led us to the long, fast zip down past the Butt Brother’s Farm and connected us with the stone-embedded track leading to Mile-46 that has maimed the rims and pinched the tubes of many a fancier bike. The plan was to grab a soda and maybe play around in a riverbed awhile, but Mr. Panic had other ideas. Just before the village, the bone-racking stone road turns to flowing hard-packed sand, and the only thing to do is drift every corner. But, get overzealous with the throttle and you might see your ***, which is just what Panic did. Coming hot into a gentle right-hand bend, he gave it that extra squirt and found himself sliding sideways and looking at his headlight, performing some form of low-side/high-side routine (we can’t figure it out) and ending up in a heap gasping for breath.
It was time for that soda. We stopped, pushed his handlebars back to some semblance of straightness (again, the bike was fine otherwise), yakked with a booze-reeking Masai mzee. Panic popped an ibuprofen, very Zen about the whole thing: “falling’s part of riding”. Still, it probably didn’t make sense to keep pushing too much, so we aimed for Olepolos and a big kuku choma and beers. On the way, I nearly had a head-on with a pickup grinding its way out of a rocky riverbed (me: “Oh chips!” Brake, skid 45 degrees left, skid 45 degrees right, throttle on and around) and had a number of close-calls with would be tank-slappers (thank you GPR stabilizer). The Universe clearly wanted to remind us who was boss.
Above: Somewhere near Butt Brothers Farm
Above: Always classy at Olepolos
Usually, we eat and head straight home, but after resting awhile, we had regained some of our energy and it wasn’t even 3:00 yet, so we made an extended loop. The bikes, the afternoon light, the terrain… it’s just the best thing ever. Fast on the hard pack, over the ruts, around the trees, battle down the stones, hard on the throttle and brakes… more, more, more, something like the sound of Beavis and Butthead in your brain grunting “Yeah! Yeah! Yeah!”
Above: Panic double-take down the Honda suspension test section
Above: That’s a quick corner, Mr Panic… nicely done!
Home and alive to ride another day.
:snorting: