Karoo Krismis: Dorre Karoo na Groene Tuinroete

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Dag 1 Deel 1 - Stellenbosch na Tankwa Padstal

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Die verste wat ek nog alleen gery het, was na 'n ontmoetingspunt vir 'n rit, of Kommetjie en Bettiesbaai toe om vir vriende te gaan kuier, maar dit is teerpad. Ek het  beplan om in Mei alleen na Klaarstroom te ry - ook teerpad - om pad na die EC Bash, maar sou die volgende dag by Tony the Boney en Odd Dog aansluit. Daardie rit is onverwags afgestel, so ek is nog ongetoets op langpad alleen.

Ek het eintlik beplan om êrens naby of op die R356 op pad na Sutherland te kampeer, aangesien dit die kortste en mees direkte roete maklike grondpad sou wees, maar die plekke was óf toe omdat dit Somer is en dus te warm, óf onverklaarbaar volbespreek. Op Andy660 se voorstel bel ek vir Gannaga Lodge gebel, en hulle het vir my plek.

Ek moet maar die langer pad vat, meer as 300km op my eie, en ek is benoud. My voorbereiding is nie juis deeglik nie; ek het tot 'n lugkompressor in my gereedskapsak, maar ek het nog nooit geleer om 'n band af te haal en die binneband om te ruil nie. Ek herinner myself daaraan dat ek nog net twee pap bande gehad het in die sowat 18 maande wat ek al ry: een keer by Coxwain se huis, en eenkeer by Koedoeskloof, waar vriendelik Honde met groot spoed en vaardigheid korte mette gemaak het van die proses.

Aangesien ek nie 'n GPS het nie, druk ek 'n papierkaart in my gereedskapsak, al het ek kaartlees gedop as 'n Drawwertjie. My roete is ingetik op die navigasietoep en ek hoop vir die beste. Beste is natuurlik dat ek gestrand gaan sit in die dorre boendoes met 'n toep wat nie vir my kan wys waar in die Karoo ek is nie, en sonder sein sodat ek kan bel vir hulp nie. Boonop is ek so gejaagd dat ek nie vreeslik aandagtig na die roete gekyk nie, en ek is nie eers 40% seker waarheen ek op pad is nie, net dat dit êrens tussen die R355 en die R356 is aan die bokant van die Karoo Nasionale park.

Met die gejaag en sleg slaap, is al my beplanning deurkemaar. Ek voel vaal van moegheid, dit is warm, en die energiedrankies wil net nie inskop nie. Ek jaag in sterk wind tot by Ceres en maak vol, en my brandstofverbruik is hoog. Dan draai ek die motorfiets in die rigting van die R355. Ek is lugtig vir Gydopas na my ongeluk, en wil grondpad slaan sodat my senuwees kan bedaar.

My brein vuur sinapse soos 'n "Weakest Link" aanbieder: Wat as ek nie Gannaga Lodge haal nie? Wat as ek tussen Gannaga Lodge en Middelpos sonder brandstof gaan staan môre? Ek troos myself: dinge sal reg uitwerk. Waar ookal ek sein het, laat weet ek my suster waar ek is en waarheen ek op pad is.

Ek maak al wat 'n ritssluiter en lugopening is oop vir koelte en hou my spoed op 'n konstante 100kph. My helmetvisor is oop en ek kyk rond na die vaal, dorre veld en sing hardop saam met die musiek in my oorfone. Ek het dit in my agterkop dat ek voor 18:00 by Gannaga Lodge moet wees - 'n fout, blyk dit - en ek stop min.

Die wind help darem om die oorverhitting te verhoed, maar ek sien net 3 bakkies op die R355 tussen Ceres en Tankwa Padstal - buiten vir die voertuie by Tankwa self. Geen motorfietse in sig nie, asof daar 'n motorfiets-wegraping was.

Ek wik of ek by Tankwa Padstal moet indraai, en besluit op 'n ingewing om te stop, meerendeels om 'n paar blikke van bewondering bymekaar te skraap omdat ek vrou alleen hierdie groot tog aandurf, om my kwynende bravade te steier. Nie 'n enkele motorfiets nie, net die stowwerige bakkies en hulle vaal, vitterige eienaars.

My bravade blaas vinnig af en, wielietjies pap, stap ek reguit in na Susan toe, maar ek het nie eintlik iets nodig nie. Ek vat maar 'n bottel koue water. Dan val dit my by van my Internetloosheid en ek vra haar aanwysings na Ganagga toe. Sy teken vir my die pragtigste kaart, en ek maak my vinnig uit die wiele.

Haar aanwysings is in die kol! Die wind druk-druk my met speelse erns, en my kop bly knak, maar die "carbon kevlar" helmet is lig en dit pla nie baie nie. Dit is nogal vermoeiend om op 'n relatief ligte motorfiets te ry met die wind so van die kant af. Die bietjie verkeer droog heeltemal op, en ek is vir baie kilometers die enigste beweging, 'n pers spikkel op die landskap.

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Dag 1 Deel 2 - Tankwa Padstal na Gannaga Lodge

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Ek het al eenkeer oornag in Tankwa Tented Camp, en het so halwe spesmaas dat ek daar afdraai. Ek is heeltemal verkeerd - die afdraai is ver voor dit. Volgens Susan se aanwysings, volg ek die borde na Tanka Karoo Nasionale Park se kantore in die middel van die park, en net 'n paar kilometer verder split die pad, en ek hou links regs vir Gannaga Lodge. (Kyk, as dit nie vir die kaart was nie ... !). Die pad is dan ook soos sy verduidelik het, en ek ry lekker.

Die pad en veld is droog en stowwerig, maar dit maak steeds 'n aanskoulike prentjie met die blou berge in die agtergrond. Die oopte trek aan die spiertjies agter die oog en vat vlug met die verbeelding. Die pad is nie moeilik nie, hoewel die padoppervlak bietjie los is. By elke bomerige of bosserige driffie verminder ek drasties spoed, gedagtig aan die waarskuwing van koedoes. Ek sien in my gemoedsoog hoe 'n koedoe in 'n grasieuse boog oor my spring, en my onthoof met elegansie.

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Maar dit is baie droog, en daar is geen koedoes in die driffies nie. Dan kom die kantore in sig, en net verby hulle, troppe springbokke en selfs elande, en ek wonder of hulle die diere voer? Hulle is baie wild, en laat spat by aanhoor van die "Gentleman" se gebrom.

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lN8raNti4hE7j5cG2qxsyWrnRQvPWbN_0nq2Amj1zpWNtiyeKQYihWeesUruSxDKt-4a6pnRLH1Z3sM7j--q-_vpPGkaVbLCGkfXrItV4ZPEIliLHMMo86dwiDqpvNPeSUwwzz00-sUdKB9pcxOik-qQXVccMSB5rE8MZB1zglrZovqAqbzr-edk2F6g-Up2n7QXyVn3DWCHyD8nVz5Ifj0wo7dOzNsXbHiK-xhO-etpSfs8ufH8c0vMi13erf4zQ2LEKeIIW_2w-jb_1sq4TnKxmBbN2U_27wXhruNGXVNaf2T8CFqwb1viGfFhWqTXiQvOjmW1N9HPRnDj7loavj20ebQZFheD6A4I7YfkyP6psShyEsO2XEd7b7PrVXbPPnLMuKb3DEQvKWm0PnM4WJyx3iPG7ehPKSE1cMRCzUIiDDykjQMWUaUYvNNnql6Fvdspsvi175xP3MzGr4ZYTQaZ4TIhn9QGO0K_6BXmJdrVkR2D3_MdsmCeiJTIQQjCuYK69cl9lQObS7ae6oOPChRZRb2JHU9IX4bCEXDxd_bGQm5wEUP7im2pJRt008kHhbFyabZlS8ToQdqDOR4En08G54lstnWJaiGy2h7ljIM5v9ekbApa-7G-lQGyxNCnv7iHU7xBvpKMm-GgOhMLUcj9S13_SCoB=w924-h693-no



Ek mis amper die afdraai na Gannaga Lodge. Die ander pad gaan Calvinia toe... 'n groter draai as waarvoor ek lus is. Ek is net na 16:00 weg by Tankwa Padstal, en die son begin water trek. Van hier af kry ek weer 'n motor of twee, nadat ek seker 'n uur alleen op die pad was. Hemels! (Verskoon swart merk asb - vet handskoen vinger oor kameralens  ::))

Die pad wat ek moet vat:

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sx42xraYOoesu3zLcxsJ2Us7ItQPOU8AQALZseH7UGN4OKWNWkDFVlY_Eo_CVaryP5a4D8OXAIh4US_IidF7bmiKK1gM67mRJi-LYVMmeG2BASCqrSJFy36gEk4hmLvlG-WKb-zJPz47st4enQy9RoHdUy_z0HYBul8FBxYaBWX0XUwsYElEHT1dXmJhECxI8TrGmHbHOQzR9dLGMwPr6DXN6lLYDW7gkQOFj4alJRRh8KGD4HhZWeZsl3EBfXOo6DfQW80e8hFCw_pfOJoLaX7MX9sXYyetE8R0fECdyoYxlBYQGSO1fZAQcg55qEU5lvF6h73o3qMS852uPg2jiy-9l2eHRrw_v0nWJzpNRAwI2ZoyEMLadYsWwVi97oGg7MIAAmsNZWGd8JFyUuEJfeHOGtXZsWUN6DPMUILRcZUK3JcMfUlsF5Y-KFnzXJxqjc4eC5xUgsrtaIiLI5Tvt2WPV57ABvE0priW4psgZUAVrXdyaPbU2A1Pi1I9c8tss7JDakg0taESETGHiSvYC-ZSl_XuyBs84lGI3z3M9v6nyY7B513FlqxST_gnxQ7tJDsgSz6QNrvXxpILACQO7jyLzVzbjO3rsEIUezL02XSjXtj8uFsX_mf5h4PzPix5hiPCyE7_STW75wKbb3qflhYr0LH7N1co=w924-h693-no



Dan verskyn Gannaga Pas in sig:

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gR1w1Av-EjApQt9wdyJrIcr_Sjc-FLP_zE0dOBXNw14cVdKCV9mR-CnAzaH3MKp0TqcRAILEn44CykcfumjjO8u4UGq1DfY3_J-chOgjK_A4_fA-XYchS3myLMA7hZnPkKU5V12bFMGBqIJRXMiQAIlmtG4-x2pg_hqpKXY_acQYK5GxXWhW0PMFfb2fA4qDvEWVSAWd6s5USfNFuO5KmKEfJMYcuanpDyVgEOJP-aw3E0ARn5-8-hAtUIEj7DiHGDHAAMvJ0kQOBWHpUaUpkhUWcdWmdCndMQwESCORsrfS4JswB_1UbYitFJtpFZTc7kGfdS4Yu756-8XkJ0BrGrQaPDW_qI9V7w3LqIFxUD6hRIQ1V1eWiwDDsvGX_E4fxYTMTYt809K8inFpvIx5jFCDFE1oBQXX1sj-qCZbmkpPWK-_ykG25fAMGIqeIGo8s3rWclg9RztS3qcU9iNeXZiztix321qteeJwBXyjBOZc7-uiUJsRysIR847hAgqiJufO67ygOL2rsbDWwzeSCzjl_jK_0TMEckoZESMSt-5q5haFOnrN8UZfwhQiTOZaUo5IoJTAznf87Hnp7am7RM6HXLtuY4mXXYB9u-rNpCAwLGnJ6ALvfNsuIaHter_YNzfrP8a6WPiOzx8cKxR1m9NmTzYiJ9EQ=w924-h693-no



Op die pas is dit spitsverkeer - twee voertuie! Een kom van voor, en die ander steek ek verby toe hulle stop om foto's te neem.

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Beeldskoon

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Flippit ek laaik hierdie baaik! :drif:

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woody1 said:
We know women by now.. takes FOREVER.  :peepwall: :pot: :imaposer:

Ja, maar moet net nie buite in die driveway hoot nie, dan soek jy ernstige moeilikheid.
 
Herklaas said:
woody1 said:
We know women by now.. takes FOREVER.  :peepwall: :pot: :imaposer:

Ja, maar moet net nie buite in die driveway hoot nie, dan soek jy ernstige moeilikheid.
[emoji23]

Sent from my F3112 using Tapatalk

 
Waiting in anticipation for the next episode, it's like waiting for your favorite TV series' next episode. 

Nice report Ri, you are improving my Afrikaans reading ability which is very slow.  :-[
 
Herklaas said:
woody1 said:
We know women by now.. takes FOREVER.  :peepwall: :pot: :imaposer:

Ja, maar moet net nie buite in die driveway hoot nie, dan soek jy ernstige moeilikheid.

And we know men by now ... NO PATIENCE!  :lamer:
All good things come to those who wait  :sip:  ;)

Odd Dog said:
Waiting in anticipation for the next episode, it's like waiting for your favorite TV series' next episode. 

Nice report Ri, you are improving my Afrikaans reading ability which is very slow.  :-[

Thanks Odd Dog, I'm glad you're enjoying it. I was worried I'm a bit long winded - good grief, 3 posts and day 1 isn't over yet! - but in the interest of improving your command of my Mother Tongue, I'll continue in my wordy way :bueller: :imaposer:

And for the rest of you I'll post pretty pichas :biggrin:
 
My head hurts when I read in Afrikaans, nice photo's though  ;) :thumleft:
 
Buff said:
My head hurts when I read in Afrikaans, nice photo's though  ;) :thumleft:
:laughing4: :laughing4:

ole Tolla said his tongue went round like a budgie the moment he had to speak english!!
 
Day 1 Part 3 - Gannaga Lodge

Crawling around the last bend cautiously, I almost miss the turn-off to Gannaga Lodge, which is on the left almost on top of the Pass.

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I rumble in leisurely, looking around at the stone buildings scattered all over the silent yard, and semi-screech to a dusty halt at Reception. I shuffle around for a few moments trying to get the doddering Gent to stand by himself (side stand needs shortening), and tread my dusty boots across the cool and spacious reception area to wait at the desk for service.

The Receptionist comes out of the office to greet me just as two dogs come running in from outside, and she excuses herself from attending to my hot and parched self to pour some water for the panting dogs. I stand dumbly, not caring much, touched that the animals' care is so taken to heart.

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The reception area is bare and beautiful, announcing the festive season with a hint of opulence.

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The kind Receptionist quickly signs me in, takes my dinner order and walks outside to direct me to my room. She disappears quickly while I try to drag tired kit onto tired body, and guessing at the direction, I point the Gent and gingerly shoot off. Seems I have a room at the back of the house at the far end of the yard.

My senses perk up when I spot a big bakkie with a trailer loaded with plastics, and a little KTM parked to the side. I circle the front of the house like a drunk vulture under the amused gaze of the plastics' owners, stopping now and then to try get the Gent's foot down, and finally end up next to the KTM.  The owners smile broadly when I dismount and disrobe, and quickly a chair is pulled out and a can of beer opened for me. Introductions are made, and the chatter flows. Contentment peeks around the corner.

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I make my excuses to go settle into my room quickly and to disrobe some more. It is also beautiful, spacious and interesting.

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The house has a living room complete with fire place, and I can imagine making this a base for bike excursions in the cooler seasons, parking off here in the evenings with friends to share good wine and conversation.

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And now of course what you've been waiting for since I mentioned them: BIKES!  :laughing4:

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My new friends are very friendly and sociable, a lovely couple whose names I really should have written down. I am mortified...!! Million apologies :eek: I'll call them Leslie and Robert  :-[. Leslie is tiny and built like a boy, and the KX85 (I think?) and the KTM 300 Freeride belong to her. She finds her MX gear in the youth section :eek: The KTM has been lowered so she can ride it, and has terrible ergonomics, but she is determined to ride no matter what.  The other bikes belong to Robert.

They take turns, one driving the bakkie and the other riding dirt bike, sometimes stopping over for a few days to ride around and explore. They plan to arrange bike tours around Tankwa Karoo, focusing on plastics specifically. They are renting a farm near the Padstal, and their business is called BikeXcape if I'm not mistaken. If you see them around, please tell them "hi" from me  :biggrin: (but please don't mention about the names  :-[ )

When Robert goes in attend to something in their room, I drag the chatty Leslie along so I can take some pictures of this lovely venue.

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Day 1 Part 4 - Gannaga Lodge (continued)

There is art and sculptures scattered all over the yard, and my new friend tells me the owner's brother-in-law is an artist, a fact he later confirms.

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My housing for the night:

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My trusty Gent, my dependable ride and the mechanised apple of my eye, with our luggage - his tool bag at bottom, my kit for 11 days in the roll bag on top :eek: - next to the eye catching little KTM:

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More buildings  O0

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I consider this a very imaginative use of an over-abundant resource :lol8:  I think stone absorbs heat at a slower rate, so should keep nice and cool inside.

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Very striking art scattered throughout the Lodge - this one I could easily have slipped into my luggage  :drif:

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I meet Leslie and Robert again in the bar, where we have pre-dinner drinks. I really can commend the bar on the variety and quality of its whiskeys! When I finally go in to dinner, a single table with my room number on calls for my lone occupancy, but Leslie and Robert insist that I join them, and pour me a glass of wine. They chatter away, one carrying on where the other leaves off, amiable and well-practiced silence-fillers.

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The dining room, unsurprisingly, is also inventively arranged and decorated.

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Dinner is fantastic, and to my mind surprisingly well-priced (but please bear in mind that I'm used to Stellenbosch Wine Estate prices...). I have the lamb neck stew and it is delicious. Leslie and Robert agree, cleaning the last morsel from their plates.

Leslie and Robert excuse themselves in turns to go outside for smoke breaks, and I join them after dinner while we wait for our deserts. It is a balmy night. A herd of eland cautiously approach to graze on the lawn and to drink from the pool. They scatter nervously when so much as a glance falls on them.

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After desert is vanquished and night falls, we make a quick night cap stop at the bar before turning in, and Robert buys me a double Cointreau because there is a notice declaring: No Singles Served... :lol8:

I enjoy Cointreau but seldom drink it, and never straight up, never mind a double. I sip it slowly, eyelids drooping like last curtain call, wishing I had the nerve to knock it back like Dirty Harry and head for bed, but Johann, the owner, has carefully noted its slow rate of descent and is telling me entertaining anecdotes in a slow, measured tone, a practiced and engaging storyteller.

The last drops of Cointreau slide reluctantly down my throat, and I say an exhausted good night and head for bed. Contentment quietly swoops in to nestle up close like a drowsy cat as I slip away into sleep.

 
Ian in Great Brak River said:
Lekker! Still need to get to G Lodge at some stage.

:thumleft:

I'm already planning on going again some time, maybe stay longer, hike around a bit. That place is magical.
 
Brilliant RR Ri!!!!

What an interesting place that lodge! And...your company there was from my part of the world.
 
EssBee said:
Brilliant RR Ri!!!!

What an interesting place that lodge! And...your company there was from my part of the world.

Glad you enjoying! Yes, they are from Durban. Lovely people, hope I meet them again somewhere  :thumleft:
 
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