Karoo Krismis: Dorre Karoo na Groene Tuinroete

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P.K. said:
General principal: "you will fill whatever bag you take"...
Most people pack WAY too much shit...however, each to his own and you will only find out what works for you with trial and error, which means more trips, so it`s all good !

I have made soft panniers up to 225mm deep:  way too big and wide in my opinion as they will tend to slump on the rougher tracks.
I generallt steer client`s to 100mm or 125mm wide and they work quite well.

Yip, have experienced that principle first hand, which is why I don't use my current saddle bags often - too deep. You can generally get away with waaaayyyyy less than you pack.
 
Thanks for an excellent read - both Afrikaans and English. Your photos are great and add so much more to the context of the story. Most enjoyable. Thanks again.
 
Lekke RR Ri!!
Hou van jou set-up en bike keuse!
 
Come on, finish this before Easter, the eggs are already out in the shops. :sip:
 
Thank you  ;D

Jammer oor die "drips en drabs" maar lewe is bietjie hectic op die oomblik. Ek sal na die naweek koers kry (En stuur paaseiers)
 
Dag 6 Deel 1 - Fraserburg na Klaarstroom

Beplande roete:

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Werklike roete:

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Woensdagoggend laai ek my motorfietsie, groet my mense en maak soos Hansie Slim. Aangesien ek nie die moed het om met die gelaaide motorfiets oor nou die dag se 9 km plaaskortpad te ry nie, ry ek hoofpad toe en draai dan af in Oukloof se rigting. Wanneer ek by die plaashek verbyry waar ons van die kortpad af ingekom het, kyk ek na die afstandslesing - 'n hele 39km, dus 30km langer hoofpad. Geen wonder my haastige swaer durf liewer die steiltes en die klippe aan nie.

Dan swenk ek regs in die rigting van Oukloof en maak oop.

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Regs van die naambord sien mens die fyn grondstrepie teen die koppie oploop in die agtergrond. Dit is deel van die plaas kortpad.

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Nog 'n heerlike dag vir ry, en 'n heerlike grondpad wat lê en wag... genoeg om mens se gemoed en verbeelding vleuels te gee.

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Die beste van grondpad op my Pers "Gentleman" is dat my gemiddelde spoed van tussn 70 - 90kph dit laat voel asof ek 'n vir 'n ewigheid ry. Ek sit en verkyk my aan die berge en die roofvoëls wat rondsweef, en so hier en daar sien ek 'n stertjie oor die pad sleep en in die dorre bossies langs die pad verdwyn. So voel dit asof dit 'n salige ewigheid vat om by die Fraserburg afdraai te kom, maar dis in werklikheid net sowat 'n halfuur. Getrou aan my vorige rekord, mis ek my afdraai en moet weer omdraai om op die regte koers te kom.

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Die lekker paadjie wat voorlê:

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In my spieëltjie lê die pad soos 'n pyl Beaufort-Wes toe.

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Die paadjie raak dadelik 'n bietjie dowwer en rowwer ... hier is nie baie mense wat hierdie kant toe draai nie. Dit kronkel 'n bietjie en begin teen die koppies af te sak en op te klim wat tussen Oukloofpas en die R353 lê. Daar is ook meer bosse en gelukkig is my spoed laag toe 'n jong koedoe-ooi vervaard van agter 'n boompie oor die pad deins.

Skielik ry ek tekens van samelewing raak in die vorm van krale en 'n toe hek. Dalk 'n verkeerde afdraaipaadjie? My gedagtes loop terug, maar ek kan wraggies nie 'n "Privaat" bordjie onthou nie. My gebrekkige wiskunde stel my gerus dat ek nog genoeg brandstof behoort te hê as ek dalk in my wielspore moet terugdraai. Ek sit die "Gentleman" op sy voet en gaan toets die hek... dank Vader, dit is oop. Ek ry deur en sleep dit weer toe agter my, en ry verder.

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Pad agter my:

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Onvriendelike hek

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Dan bevind ek my in spitsverkeer in die Karoo - 'n paar 4 x 4 voertuie sleep breed en swaar in die pad voor my en ek koes deur die stof en klippies by hulle verby. Daar is 'n privaat natuurreservaat met 4 x 4 roetes in die omgewing, maar die name wil nie in my gedagtes vassit nie. Dan kom ek by 'n groot kruispad, en gaan besluitloos staan. Waarheen nou? Ek haal half hopeloos my selfoon uit, en merk op dat daar weer sein is - seker vir die fênsie 4 x 4 gaste - en  kies per ongeluk om af te draai in plaas van om reguit aan te hou soos ek oorspronklik beplan het. Dit maak nie 'n groot verskil nie, en is inderdaad 'n bietjie langer grondpad met wye ooptes wat my lok.
 
Dag 6 Deel 2 - Fraserburg na Klaarstroom

By Leeu Gamka swenk ek regs op die N1. Daar is gelukkig nie baie verkeer nie, en ek het nie vêr om te gaan nie. Sowat 11 km verder, draai ek links by Kruidfontein waar die R353 reguit oor die vlaktes skiet in Prins Albert se rigting. Daar is weer min verkeer, en ek ry heerlik. Dit raak nou warmer, maar met die koel briesie is dit nie onuithoubaar nie.

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Dan, te vinnig, is ek by Prins Albert.

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Ek ry deur die dorp en dit is baie warm en tyd vir middagete, maar ek kan nie besluit waar om te stop nie. Voor al die koffiewinkels en restourante staan BMW motorfietse, wat my laat besluit om eerder verder te ry. Ek het niks teen enige motorfietshandelsnaam nie, maar weet al uit ontmoedigende ondervinding dat as iemand nie my vriendelike wuif of kopknik beantwoord nie, is dit gewoonlik 'n BMW ryer.

Ek sal maklik met 'n ander motorfietsryer 'n geselsie probeer aanknoop, maar die groot meneer motorfiets ryers is stug en terughoudend - my indruk is my spontaneïteit is nie welkom nie, en hulle kyk neer op my en die "Gent". Dit kan wees dat hulle net lugtig is vir 'n vrou wat dalk te vriendelik voorkom en my motiewe wantrou. Of dalk is dit moeilik om my ernstig op te neem - ek staan minder as 1,65m in my sokkies, en die "Gent" is kniehoogte teen enige groot motorfiets.

Ek ry verby 'n koffiewinkel met 'n Super Ten 1200 voor hom en draai in, maar bedink my weer. My bonsai motorfietsie teen daardie "behemoth"... dis soos 'n gemotoriseerde kaskar teen 'n Landrover, amper nie vergelykbaar nie. My moed begewe my. Ek draai skugter in die pad in, gee gas en ry deur Prins Albert om by Klaarstroom uit te kom, waar ek gereël het om te oornag.

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Terwyl ek hier staan en foto's neem, kom daar 'n paar groepe gemengde motorfietse verby, uit altwee rigtings, en amper elkeen wuif of kopknik beleefd vir my, tot die BMW ryers! ... Net om my groot meneer indrukke verkeerd te bewys... !

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Laaste stukkie grondpad vir die dag - die paadjie wat in Klaarstroom indraai

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By die Klaarstroom Gastehuis word ek vriendelik ontvang deur Sharon en Jeremy. Dit is die derde keer in twee jaar wat ek by hulle oorbly, en ek kan getuig van gasvryheid, vriendelikheid en baie goeie kos! Ek voel al soos familie hier. Hulle het 'n pragtige groot ou huis omskep, met krakende houtplankvloere, groot kamers en hoë plafonne. Daar is selfs 'n swembad! Dit is net na 14:00 en ek kan nou ontspan, en ek laat weet die familie dat ek veilig aangekom het.

Daar wag 'n boodskap om 'n verdere spyker in te slaan in die doodskis van my BMW (wan?)indrukke. Vriende van my, [member=23713]Rouxman[/member] en kie, op hulle BMW X-Challenge en BMW F650GS onderskeidelik, was besig om middagete te geniet in die Prins Albert hotel toe ek soos 'n pers brommer verbybommel. Hulle is op pad vanaf Gamkaskloof na Sutherland toe, in die teenoorgestelde rigting as wat ek ry, en het beplan om die aand by vriende in Prins Albert oorslaap. Hulle is teleurgesteld dat ek nie gestop het nie. Dit sal my leer om BMWs op hulle blou bakentjies te takseer.

Jeremy braai vleis vir die groep mense wat daar bly. Ons sit om die kombuistafel en drink wyn en gesels soos ou bekendes. Tienuur se kant gaan val ek die kooi aan, reg vir 'n goeie nag se slaap, veilig in die wete dat al kom daar 'n miljoen muskiete, nie een aan my sal proe nie. Dalk die Castrol Activo wat deur my are vloei. Ek sluit die deur, sit my goed reg, borsel tande en gaan klim in die bed met die tablet om vir oulaas op te vang met die Honde. Die ander gaste saag al balke na die lekker rooiwyn, en die huis is doodstil.

Skielik ratel die kamerdeur se lae deurknop dringend in die doodse stilte, en my hart gaan staan. Visioene van 'n moordenaar met 'n mes omhoog á la "Psycho" vliet deur my gedagtes, en ek skiet 'n dankgebedjie op dat ek die deur gesluit het. Die deurknop ratel weer aggressief, gevolg deur 'n lae klaende kreet van "meeeeeeaaaaauuuuw", en my hart begin weer stadig en met mening teen my ribbes te hamer wanneer ek besef dit is 'n kat wat wil inkom.

Ek sluit die kamerdeur oop en 'n kleinerige swart katjie met wit vlekke marsjeer by my verby. Sy kom vly haar teen my aan wanneer ek in die bed terugklim. Ek streel haar lyf en krap haar maag, en sy spin hard en uitbundig, totdat ek onwetend haar moordknoppie aktiveer. Sy slaan tande en kloue in my linkerpols in en geskok gryp ek haar aan die nek en probeer haar afrem, maar sy klou verbete soos 'n rotsklimmer wat onderstebo aan 'n rotswand hang.

Uiteindelik kry ek haar los en gaan was die sypelende bloed van my pols af, oortuig dat sy vervaard by die kamervenster gaan uitvlieg. Inteendeel maak sy haar heel rustig weer styf teen my tuis wanneer ek terugklim in die bed. Ek kyk haar meewarig aan, en hou my hande onder die donskombers. Sy slaap die hele nag styf teen my opgekrul, en staan eers in die vroeë oggendure op met 'n eis om by die kamerdeur uitgelaat te word, asof die oop kamervenster nie bestaan nie.

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Dit is so lekker om jou storie te lees en my hart klop sommer lekkerder en asof ek jou ken, as ek fotos sien waar ek ook al was,

Ek het al baie alleen gery in my lewe, maar ek moet jou kudos gee dat jy daardie "ver verlate vlaktes" alleen gery het. Mens wil soms wonder of jy nie jou eie planeet se afdraai gemis het nie.

Jy is 'n ware avonturuur! Sal lekker wees om jou eendag "raak te ry" :)

 
Dankie Louis, ek raak ook opgewonde wanneer ek plekke in foto's herken :biggrin:

Dis waar wat jy sê van die planeet se afdraai mis. Ek dra nie 'n horlosie nie, en 80kph op 'n DR650 voel soos 140kph seker op die sterker motorfietse voel, dié dat ek nooit seker is of ek al moes afgedraai het nie, en of dit nog kom nie.

Die Pers "Gentleman" vang blykbaar nogal die oog (aldus Rouxman), so as jy ons êrens gewaar, kom sê asb hallo :thumleft:
 
Dankie vir die lekker saamry.
Moet nie dat die ouens met hulle "groot" fietse jou intimideer nie, jy ry, jy geniet en het niemand nodig om jou hand vas te hou nie! Jy het my respek.
Sal jou ook graag eendag wil raakry en lekker gesels.
Ek ry meeste van die tyd die oudste lelikste fiets wanneer ek saammet ander ry, maar pla my nie.
Alleen ry is maar net lekker en 'n fiets wat jou soontoe vat is reg!
Groot, klein,oud of nuut, maak nie saak!
 
Day 7 Part 1 - Klaarstroom to George

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Once the menacing and clawful kitty settles down and the immediate threat is over, I sleep like the dead. I wake up fairly late, and wander into the kitchen for strong coffee and breakfast. I tell Sharon and Jeremy of my eventful night and they are very surprised. Apparently the kitty, a tamed feral kitten, isn't in the habit of sharing a bed with the guests.

They offer me antiseptic for the scratches, but I decline. My body must maar fight the good fight. I grew up in an era where we ate water paints, salted snails, mud, and Chappies stuck in obscure corners, so my body is equipped to handle anything except, frustratingly, gluten.

After breakfast I load up the Purple Gent, hug my friendly host and hostess good bye, and head towards Oudshoorn with a vague route in mind, courtesy of P.K. I love Meiringspoort and could pass through it a hundred times, and too soon it is behind me and I trawl through De Rust, a little hamlet that doesn't do its name justice on this busy morning. Just beyond it I see the turn-off for Oude Muragie, and my heart quickens. New and untravelled gravel roads! What lies ahead?

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The road sways and swerves alongside the mountain through beautiful farmlands and I smile widely inside my helmet. It is good to be alive, and on a good gravel road on a good motorbike.

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Along the way I stop to keep my family and some Garden Route Dogs updated. They are a little concerned that I'm riding by myself, but here in the Little Karoo, towns and farms are closer together and there is more traffic about, so I am not very concerned. And Gent is humming along contentedly, doing what he does best, without missing a beat or altering tone. He is also having the time of his life.
 
Oubones said:
Dankie vir die lekker saamry.
Moet nie dat die ouens met hulle "groot" fietse jou intimideer nie, jy ry, jy geniet en het niemand nodig om jou hand vas te hou nie! Jy het my respek.
Sal jou ook graag eendag wil raakry en lekker gesels.
Ek ry meeste van die tyd die oudste lelikste fiets wanneer ek saammet ander ry, maar pla my nie.
Alleen ry is maar net lekker en 'n fiets wat jou soontoe vat is reg!
Groot, klein,oud of nuut, maak nie saak!

Sê jy my Pers "Gentleman" is oud en lelik? :eek7: 
Ek dink hy is die mooiste bike op die pad, ooit :love5:

Ek moet bieg, iemand sal my hand moet kom vashou as die "Gent" ooit 'n pap wiel kry, maar hy was gaaf genoeg om dit nog nooit in die boendoes te doen nie. Nes sy baas, knyp hy ook maar tot in die beskawing :imaposer:
 
Google Photo having fun with my photo's: panoramas it stitched together of my photo's

Gannaga Pass

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Sunrise from Gannaga Lodge

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Day 7 Part 2 - Klaarstroom to George

Soon I reach the tar road between Swartberg Pass and Oudtshoorn, and I turn right, heading towards the mountains. Before I reach the Swartberg Pass gravel road, it's time to turn left onto the Calitzdorp Road.

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While taking photo's, I notice a biggish development has sprung up not far from the turn-off. Time for a break! methinks, and I turn around and head towards it. It's a nice log building with beautiful views all around and quite a view visitors.

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Coming to a sliding halt in the parking area, I do my usual paddling around trying to find a friendly incline for the Gent's foot. Finally I find it, and can dismount and take off some of this hot gear. As I walk around taking photo's, I notice some motorbikes - a big KTM, a big XT and an Africa Twin marked with the Honda Quest decals, and I hasten towards the restaurant to see whether I can spot any Honda Quest participants. Along the way I pass a woman a little taller than me, admiring the good looking XT, and we start chatting about bike sizes and weights. She had a KLE500 before, and is keen to buy a bike again.

I round the corner eagerly and immediately spot three guys in colourful biker gear. They glance at me before turning back to their discussion, and I put my head down and head inside to buy a cold drink. The place is crawling with cyclists. While I sit drinking my cold drink, a guy in a nice old leather jacket comes up to me and we start chatting bikes and routes. It turns out he is planning to ride over Swartberg Pass.... on a Harley Davidson ... with a pillion. I hope they made it OK!

When I'm refreshed and a little cooled, I head back to the Gent, and notice that one of the big bikes, the KTM I think, is being loaded onto the back of a bakkie. No wonder they were so focused, they had a sick bike to worry about. I smile to myself. I haven't yet had a single hiccup with the Gent - reliable as an anvil and half the weight.


A Harley Davidson roaring off to where I feared to ride.

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One of the Honda Quest Africa Twins

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I pull away with just the teensiest spurt of gravel and turn towards Calitsdorp.

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Next time I'll be heading over and not around. A Gamkaskloof trip is on the cards for sure!

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Another new gravel road for me to explore and enjoy: Lategansvlei

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Lekker man, LEKKER!

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Pesky glove!

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Then suddenly I hit tar again, and I am very tempted to turn back.

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This bike is much more photogenic than its owner.

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I head through Oudtshoorn, keeping pace with a big silver bike until it turns off into a big shopping centre without acknowledging the mighty purple midget. Purple Envy is real. Then I find myself swooping down a very beautiful but very crowded Outeniqua Pass, having missed the turn-off to Montagu Pass - again - and I stop to take photo's and try to figure out where are the Four Passes I'm supposed to be able to see from this lookout point.

Lush green mountains after the dry, dry Karoo

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George on the horizon

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Patiently waiting to get going again

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Day 7 Part 3 - Klaarstroom to George

When I reach the bottom of Outeniqua Pass, I head up Montagu Pass. When I reach the tar road at the top, I turn around and ride back down again. Gent and I haven't had our quota of gravel for the day yet, and we're keen for more.


Now I realise my mistake - I turned right towards George when I should've turned left towards Uniondale.

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There are a few bikers heading in both directions on the pass as I head up, and when I head down again, a single biker passes me. I later pass him parked next to the side of the gravel, photographing his bike, and I smile to myself as I nod at him, recognising the compulsion. At the bottom of the pass, as I am photographing the Gent, the same biker passes me with a nod and a wave and I burst out laughing.

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Purple Gent under the purple blossoms.

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When I reach George, I fill up the Gent's tank and ask the friendly attendant for directions to George Backpackers, then promptly get lost and trundle around for a while before I eventually find them in a roundabout way, more by luck than by design. I book in, and the friendly receptionist even arranges a locked space with a key for me to park Gent for the next few days. I have a windowless, airless room with two single beds and a doorless cupboard in the middle of the house, between a hallway and the kitchen, backed by the bathrooms.

The place is clean and quiet ... until the rest of the guests arrive at dusk, squawking like roosting ibis. I can only guess, but it looks like a few families, including toddlers, have booked out most of the accommodation and are using it as a base for their holidays, as they are gone every day until sundown. I wonder whether they are family of the owner, and why they didn't book a place with a swimming pool - this place is sweltering. But the enclosed backyard makes it safe for the active, noisy children. Every evening the men attempt to occupy the curly and cramped chairs and sofas in the reception area to watch TV, half hanging onto the backs to keep from sliding off the narrow seats, while the children run amok, screaming for attention and food. The women seem to cook until midnight, banging fridge and microwave doors and ignoring crying, over-tired toddlers.

But I've camped with bikers before and am prepared for travel, complete with earplugs.

After I'm settled in and packed out, P.K. very generously fetches me, having invited me to join his family for a braai. It is a mellow evening, with top notch food and interesting conversation, watching the sun set over the mountains while guinea fowl run around trying to score one more bite. I couldn't have asked for a better ending to a wonderful day. After dinner, P.K. drops me off at the backpackers again. I later realise I missed a golden opportunity to discuss pannier bags with him, as he could easily haven taken measurements of the bike's pannier racks. Ah well, I'll just have to come this way again. Soon!

 
:ricky: Lekker Ry Verslag :ricky:  Ri jy moet vir Dux vra om jou te leer Punctures regmaak  :spitcoffee: dankie vir die deel  :biggrin:
 
Dankie Zetman. Ek gee maar eers vir Dux bietjie spasie dat hy die Hooligan weer op die been kry.
 
So baie paaie so min tyd. Lekker om die RR te lees
 
Dankie vir die deel met ons Ri. Ek verlang sommer weer daai Karoo paaie hier waar ek in die beton oerwoud sit.

Lekker om te lees van jou opgewonderheid en "butterflies" vir die trip.

Nou is die ys gebreek en die wêreld is jou oester.

Geniet jou verdere solo trips.

Solo trips raak net 'n probleem as jy val en 'n ledemaat breek. Jy klink egter versigtig genoeg dat ek nie dink dit sal werklik 'n probleem wees nie.

My enigste negatiewe kommentaar is daai pers - ek dog julle vroumense is meer peink?  :imaposer: :imaposer: :imaposer:

 
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